First time poster (and relatively novice woodworker) here. As the post’s title implies, I am looking to build a floating breakfast bar in the corner of my kitchen. i want to make it L-shaped so my original plan was to attach two pieces of birch butcher block together with glue using a miter joint reinforced with a spline. However, I found several videos online discussing mitered butcher block countertops that recommended using a combination of adjustable fasteners (e.g., draw bolt joint connectors/miter bolts) and unglued biscuits/dowels instead of glue/joinery because they would allow the joint to move as moisture levels change. Would this apply to my floating bar top just like it would to counter tops or should i go ahead with my original plan? Thanks for the help!
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Floating breakfast bar...like in the pool?
Mechanical fasteners can't hurt... You'll be gluing end grain to end grain and the last thing you want to do is restart that discussion! Dowling for alignment and it will create at least some surface to glue to.
Not sure if I can help, as there are some unclarities (i.e., what is "floating"?) If you miter, spline, and glue two pieces of butcher block together, they should stay together well if both are subjected to the same seasonal humidity variation. What will NOT stay the same is the angle that they make in the corner (assuming that they are not restrained from below; if they are, then the joint can break from the stress.) As the butcher block expands across the grain in a humid summer, the 45º angle becomes less, and the corner angle increases. Opposite if the wood dries out more in the dry heating season. So if the top is unrestrained and it's OK for it to change shape, all is well; if restrained, likely trouble.
I made my own kitchen counter tops from "butcher block" (really, strip laminated) cherry, with one end being a short ell. Instead of a mitered corner, I just glued a short, wide piece of the butcher block to the long counter top to make it essentially wider at that end. As long as you make allowance for the top to change width, all will be well. Not sure if I would do this if both legs of the ell were really long, tho.
Another option would be to use the fasteners and biscuits/splines to make a 90º butt joint between the two pieces, instead of a miter. As long as you keep the front edges of the pieces square (not rounded over), and allow for the seasonal movement, all will be fine. The piece (B) that butts into the other (A) can change width, without changing the overall shape. You just need to finish the front edge of A before you assemble the two, so that if B shrinks, there won't be an unfinished little strip exposed. Note that B will need to be allowed to move in both directions, if A is fixed at the wall and allowed to move at its front.
Post a drawing, way too many options for floating, mitered, L-shaped, and splined. Show us your application so we can help instead of guess. The more detail the better.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled