Replies

1. 
   Ricks503 | Jul 04, 2005 12:01am | #1

   Have you considered a box that fits over some galvanized pipe secured to the wall with long screws or lag screws?

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jul 04, 2005 06:52am | #2

   A floating shallow shelf for a washbasin may look good on a drawing, but think about the plumbing.   There will be a drain pipe and likely a couple of supply lines underneath the shelf.  I'd build the "shelf" with enough height that it can hide the plumbing, or at least a good deal of the plumbing.   That is, the "shelf" might be 6" tall or more -- at least back where the plumbing is.   A good thing about this approach is that it gives you lots of opportunity to fasten the shelf to the wall.   Think of this taller shelf as five-sided box, open on the bottom.   To fasten it to the wall, run screws through the back.  

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 04, 2005 08:04pm | #4

   A floating shallow shelf for a washbasin may look good on a drawing, but think about the plumbing.   There will be a drain pipe and likely a couple of supply lines underneath the shelf. ..

   You can get the 'quality' finish plumbing.. Just make sure you take a oxygen bottle with you when you get the price for that stuff.. Your heart may stop for a while...

3. 
   ring | Jul 04, 2005 03:07pm | #3

   Roger,

   You really didn't give us enough details -

   What size and weight are we talking about?  What is the wall made of?  Can it have an apron like Jamie suggested?  etc..

   If you can use an apron then the project becomes trivial.  If you must make a plain unadorned shelf, then some further thoughts - You can somehow mount those support pipes sturdily to the wall, and make the shelf a narrow torsion box so that the pipes disappear into the hidden interior of the box.  If the plumbing underneath is visible it may be necessary to use chrome fittings.

   Regarding wood species, I have done these from everything conceivable.  The best are teak or ipe, then close-grained woods like maple and walnut, the poorest are open-grained like oak.  But with a good waterproof finish (especially where you make the cutouts for plumbing) you can use anything you please.

   DR

1. 
   ROGERW | Jul 04, 2005 10:34pm | #5

   Thanks guys for the advice. I don't know the weight yet, but have asked.  My first thought was a veneered torsion box arrangement but the plumber says he's seen solid versions before with chrome fittings.  They must be fairly chunky though as he says he's seen ones where the fixing to the wall is two inches thick with an inch rabbet at the wall side that corresponds to the opposite configuration on the shelf itself which then sits on the rabbet in the wall.  Anyone follow that - how can I post a diagram?

   Roger

1. 
   ring | Jul 05, 2005 03:18pm | #6

   I think I follow and it doesn't seem like it would be strong enough to me.  You can post a drawing by creating it on some computer program, or else by scanning a regular sketch.

   DR