Replies

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Mar 19, 2009 07:39am | #1

   Go for it.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   tom_47 | Mar 19, 2009 07:51am | #2

   Flair,
   Thanks.
   Tom

2. 
   xmike | Mar 20, 2009 03:42am | #3

   I use poplar tenons in maple all the time - works fine.
   Mike D

1. 
   tom_47 | Mar 20, 2009 05:20am | #4

   While we're at it, are there guidelines for tenon sizes. There was a recent article in FWW that noted 3/8" thick tenons make much stronger joints than 1/4" tenons (in 3/4" stock). What about the other two dimensions ? Obviously the dimensions of the components set a max limit, but is there a guide for how "tall" the tenon should be in relationship to the "height" of the apron being joined to a table leg ? How much does the "shoulder" contribute to the racking strength ? When (if ever) does making a tenon longer provide no more strength ? (I know, when it pokes out the other side.) This could be a legitimate concern when planing leg dimensions.Tom

1. 
   xmike | Mar 20, 2009 05:44am | #5

   That's the cool thing about woodwork - always something else to learn!

2. 
   JohnWW | Mar 21, 2009 08:37pm | #6

   The taller the tenon, the better in terms of strength so bringing the tenon to within 1/4" to 3/8" of the top and bottom edges of the apron is desirable. In softwoods the shoulder dimension should be increased to 1/2" clearance on larger aprons. Adding depth to the mortise in the leg adds to glue surface, but beyond a certain point the strength of the glue line quickly exceeds the strength of the wood fibers so there is little gained by very deep mortises. Usually whatever the tooling conveniently allows is sufficient. Typically in an apron to leg joint the depth is limited by the conflict between the tenons of the side and end aprons coming into the top of the leg which can result in a less than ideal amount of glue surface, so you do the best you can. John White
   Shop Manager for FWW, 1999-2007

1. 
   tom_47 | Mar 22, 2009 05:11am | #9

   John,
   Thank you very much for your post.Tom

3. 
   Sandtazam | Mar 21, 2009 08:48pm | #7

   I'm not sure if I'm in the right place to ask this but I will. I have 10 sheets of burl Oak backed veneer. It has veneer tape all over it to prevent knots from coming loose. It's sat like this for years before I acquired it. When I remove the tape, it leaves a light areas where the tape was removed. I've tried stain, sanding (went all the way through) heat, 4 days in the sun, moisture and Dye. I haven't tried an ammonia tent yet but I'd like some input on that before I try. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

1. 
   tom_47 | Mar 22, 2009 05:08am | #8

   Sandtazam,
   You should post this question as a new "Post" in the "Finishing" section. Tom

4. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 22, 2009 11:36pm | #10

   Is it good joinery practice to use floating tenons of a different species.

   I sure HOPE SO!

   I have been making two beds of laminated woods of very different woods. Sapele and Panga-Panga.. Titebond III glue.

   I used floating tenons of a different species on many parts.. And some of the same woods! AND the old style hand cut fittings!

   I hope my China Dolls think Pa-Pa tried his best!

   I will brobably not be alive to see them sleeping in them.. BUT I am sure when the Beds fall apart and the dust clears.. And both surrive the faliing timbers.. PA-Pa was always was funnin' us!