Replies

1. 
   Samson | May 15, 2009 05:55pm | #1

   I'm sure a router person will come along and tell you just exactly how to do build the appropriate router jig, but just in case you weren't aware of it, have you considered a hand beader like the Stanley 66?  You can make your own scratch stock quite easily and cheaply or buy one (Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley).  Just a thought.

1. 
   meatman | May 15, 2009 09:56pm | #3

   No! I never thought of that. I want flutes about 1/4 in wide. Will that work for this?

   Thanks,

   Bob

1. 
   Samson | May 15, 2009 11:35pm | #6

   Sure, they make plates for 1/4" fluting:

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=62030&cat=1,41182

   http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=66

2. 
   Cincinnati | May 17, 2009 12:53pm | #7

   What spacing do you want? Are you cutting them on a table?

   If flutes are to be 3/4" apart, cut spacing strips from 3/4" lumber. Make them at least as wide as your fence is high. You will need one less strip than the number of flutes on a board.

   Set the fence to bit distance for cutting the flute farthest from the reference edge. (You'll have to put two reference marks on your table - one for the leading edge of the cut and the other for the trailing edge.)

   After each pass, drop a spacer in front of your fence. Use double sided tape to hold the spacer against the fence or the previous spacer.

   If you are going to do this more frequently, I'd create a fence/jig system with magnets to hold each spacer to the next.Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

2. 
   MikeHennessy | May 15, 2009 07:29pm | #2

   There have been a couple of threads over at Breaktime about routing flutes -- you might wanna do a search over there.

   Note that one problem you'll need to deal with is the tendency of the wood to burn at the ends of the piece.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA
   Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

1. 
   meatman | May 15, 2009 10:00pm | #4

   Thanks Mike,

   I will check it out.

   Bob

3. 
   Routerman | May 15, 2009 10:42pm | #5

   A pair of edge guides will do it. No tricky fixturing. Example.

4. 
   MrSQL | Oct 22, 2009 10:11pm | #8

   I fluted about 150 lin. ft. of 5" wide walnut for side casings for doors.

   used a 1/2" fluting bit leaving about 1/2" space between each flute

   What I did was just use my hand-held router with an edge guide; (move to left on far side; move to right on near side; two passes one setting)

   since I had many door openings to do I made a jig to set the edge guide.

   the jig was just a series of 1/2" holes in a scrap board set for the spacing of the flutes.  just loosen the edge guide; put the bit in the hole, and adjust edge guide to the edge of the board.

    

   The other thing I did was take a  scrap of plywood and cut it at a very steep angle on the table-saw to create a ramp so that the flute gradually tapered to nothing (rather than just stopping or doing through flutes).  I clamped one of these to either end of the board and would start and stop on the ramp (i.e. ramp down, bit in the wood; ramp up, bit out of the wood)

    

   Be prepared for some hand sanding of the flutes.

    

    

5. 
   MrSQL | Oct 22, 2009 10:13pm | #9

   you can also flute on the tablesaw by pushing the board across the slightly protruding blade at an angle (angled fence clamped to table top)

   steep angle = narrow flutes

   big angle = wide flutes or cove