This is a follow up to Post # 10177 from way back on 1/22/03.
Just wanted to say to all who gave so much help and good advice that the baby (upgrading a Delta Contractor Saw from 110 to 220) was delivered hail and hardy late last week. The town inspector gave his seal of approval today so I feel good and safe for myself and as someone mentioned, for the next person who uses the electricity out in the garage.
Was it worth it? To me the answer is a resounding YES.
I now have 220 power for other machinery down the road.
I’m told that the motor will work better and last longer all other things being equal.
I did get more power (1.5HP to 2.0) and I can feel it in the cutting process. I did a before and after with the same 2×4 and could feel the difference in the resistance to the blade.
Thanks again for all the help and info. It was a real good experience for me.
Replies
Hey, I remember that.
Did you wire it yourself, or did you pay someone? Weren't you the guy who got a high dollar bid and was looking for another bid before you took the leap?
Hey, now that you're experienced, can you come to my shop and......
Ah, nevermind, I have everything I need to hook up my tablesaw to 220, except maybe a few feet of wire. Just havn't gotten to it. Between building closets in my house, and helping my sister finish her basement so she can adopt my niece, it just keeps moving further and further down the priority list.
Just remember, Mike has a special Delta motor in his saw that has a 1.5 HP output on 120 volts and a 2.0 HP output on 240 volts. It is a special motor.
Standard dual voltage motors do not produce more power when operated at 240 volts.
I realize that. Technically, my Rockwell should gain no power by hooking it to 220VAC. But, I've read many real-life experiences where people say going to 220 has made a big difference, even though it isn't supposed to.
I'm curious, and my saw is a bit underpowered at times, so one day I'll rewire it just to see.
I may just do some test cuts, rewire, and plug into a 220 outlet in my garage and do some more test cuts. If there isn't a signifigant difference, I'll probably just rewire for 110 and not start banging together conduit. But, if it improves things.......
Do it, You'll be glad you did. I rewired, got links and new pulleys and a forrest WWII...Like viagra for the table saw. Brian
I've seen this question of 110 versus 220 kicked around for years and I finally have to weigh in on the subject.
It is true that an ordinary dual voltage motor will run just as well and produce the same power whether it is running on 110 or 220. The reason that so many people find their equipment runs better on 220 is that the original 110 volt wiring wasn't adequate because the wire gauge was too small and the run back to the panel was too long. Often the problem is compounded by undersized extension cords and other equipment running on the same circuit.
When you bring a new dedicated 220 line into the shop that is properly sized for the load, the saw will of course run better, but the fact is that the saw would run just as well if it were connected to a properly sized 110 volt line.
John
I'd say you're probably right here. Maybe I should start by running a dedicated 110 outlet. Though there isn't a lot on that circuit, and nothing else running while I'm sawing, I have no idea how it's wired. Most of my house outlets are still push in the back style, 27 years old, (slowly replacing them as I work on things). could be the saw is forced to draw power through 3 or 4 outlets where the only connection is the wires pushed in the back of an outlet. If so, no wonder it's bogging down.
The saw has a real heavy duty industrial looking cord on it, but on closer inspection it has 14 gauge wires in it, a heavier cord may help too.
I'll take your advice first. I just ran a dedicated outlet for the freezer in the garage (it was on the same GFI breaker as the bathrooms, some garage outlets, and the exterior outlets). I'll push the saw over close and plug it in there then see how the power compares.
Maybe putting it in large type will get attention. As a follow on is a somewhat less loud summary of an article I wrote:
If a motor is slow coming up to speed or is tripping a breaker during start up or when under load, you either have other loads on the circuit or the circuit is undersized for the amperage or the run length. The fixes are, remove the other loads from the circuit or upgrade the circuit. To upgrade the circuit, either rewire with heavier wire and a larger 120 volt breaker or convert the circit to 240 volts which has the affect of lowering the amperage draw. Either of these solutions will equally fix the problem. Again, the motor doesn't care and won't perform differently as long as it gets clean power.
Howie,
I use the larger type not to get attention, because I don't need the attention. I use the larger type because it is easier to read especially for those of us over fifty, nearsighted and wearing bifocals. Perhaps my choice of type size and color for this message will give you some sense of what I and others see when we sit in front of a monitor.
John
at 240 volts vs 120, any electrical device will use half the amps and thus will encounter half the line loss
best solution? wire the saw for 240, and a direct plug with no extension cords
worst situation? 50 feet of 16 guage extension cord, at 120 volts, which is typical of jobsite situations, my portable table saw just sits and hums, requires a push start(scary to say the least)
Thanks for the important clarification.
That's me. Did it myself and (like always) feel much the better for it.
Thanks again.
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