Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 14, 2006 05:16pm | #1

   All clear finishes are food safe in the US, but of course you don't want a film finish.  Some people like mineral oil for reasons I don't quite understand.  It certainly is safe, but it never cures.  It can be a vehicle for thinning wax, which might be a good idea for walnut, to fill the open pores. 

2. 
   HowardAcheson | May 14, 2006 05:20pm | #2

   This has been covered lots of times.

   The most often used treatment is mineral oil and paraffin.  Heat the mineral oil in a double boiler and shave in some paraffin.  The proportions are not critical.  About 5-6 parts of mineral oil to one part paraffin is about right.  Apply warm and let it be absorbed.  Let it set overnight and coat again the next day.  After another overnight period, lightly scrape off any excess, buff with a soft cloth and you're done. 

   Re-coat whenever the surface begins to look dry.

   The above treatment is what you will find on almost all commercial cutting boards or butcher blocks.  It is colorless and totally non-toxic.

   Howie.........
1. 
   ronjensen | May 14, 2006 06:56pm | #3

   Thanks howie, I am new to this so I will giv it a try

2. 
   WillGeorge | May 18, 2006 06:22pm | #10

   Paraffin can also be just rubbed into the wood.. ALOT of Elbow Grease
   but works.. Nice if you have a electric 'buffer' though.Lots of Beautiful Hardwood floors were done this way. Don't ask me how I know. Paraffin like all real waxes sort of cleans up itself woth a new coat and a fresh apply..

1. 
   koalsplace | May 20, 2006 04:19am | #11

   does this mixture also wook for wood bowls ?

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 20, 2006 10:12pm | #12

   does this mixture also wook for wood bowls ? Honest answer.. I have no idea... Never made a wooden bowl. Just Copper ones. I have however, used it on other wood projects.I would try it. It is food safe.. (Used in canning) Makes a nice shine and easy to refresh.

1. 
   jblogan | May 23, 2006 02:55am | #13

   Hey Will, I know this is not about wood but you brought it up. What kind of copper bowls do you make? I am also a silversmith & copper bowls have always intrigued me.Thanks, Jerry

2. 
   WillGeorge | May 23, 2006 05:08pm | #16

   COPPER Bowls.. Gee...YU' JUST HAD to bring that up! LOLLong ago when they had Metal Shop in scholls? I was never goods' at spellins' I think they sent us kids there to keep us busy! Chicago schools grad heres...How.. got into metalworking.. AT school shop I was handed this square hunk of copper sheet metal (Maybe 1X1 feet?) At the time I had no idea what copper was!) I was friends with a Mexican I hung around with.. I asked him what it was? He said it was brown metal?
   I said I know that but it's also Green in parts?.. He said lets ask my Dad.. He works in Sliver!.. I asked him what is Silver?We was poor folks...I'll just say his father was delighted to tell me what he knew.. Was I smart enough to get it? Anyway, what I remember is.. BE patient!..Start in the middle and hammer away in ever bigger circles till you reach the outer rim and THEN start over and do the parts ya missed!
   That I understood! The parts I missed!After about 100 circles to get the parts I missed I had this really nice looking bowl but it was SO plain.. Again his father came to the rescue!He CARVED (hammered) silver too! Anyway, he drew a pattern on it for me and showed me how to hammer it with a (sort flat of flat nail lookin' things).. He said I could use them because they are really hard to break?...All that I can say it turned out perfect! WITH ALOT of help..
   I got a A++ in class and my bowl disappeared! I'm sure the teacher took it!Thank you my old friends DAD... He was COOL!

3. 
   jblogan | May 23, 2006 02:55am | #14

   Howard, would this mixture work on knife handles?
   thanks, Jerry

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 23, 2006 03:57am | #15

   >> would this mixture work on knife handles

   It can be used on any wooden item.Howie.........

3. 
   Ricks503 | May 14, 2006 11:17pm | #4

   Do a search here and in cooks talk on cutting boards by me. I posted a bunch on them a year or so ago

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   ronjensen | May 15, 2006 03:46am | #5

   Thanks Rick, I will try that. But do I have to measure it twice?

1. 
   a_Furnitologist | May 15, 2006 04:15pm | #6

   Walnut oil is another option. There is a fella who sells it over a web site.  I remember seeing a comparison review I think in WoodShop News. 

   When the cut off pile gets to big I make a run at toys and use the walnut oil for safety reasons. It works.

   Just another option........neil

   http://www.furnitology.com

    

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 15, 2006 05:25pm | #7

   Couple of things relating to walnut oil.

   First, you can purchase it at most supermarkets.  It's in the salad oil section.

   Second, I have been told that Walnut Oil can be dangerous to some folks with nut allergies. 

   For the second reason, I do not see any benefit to walnut oil when mineral oil or a mineral oil/paraffin is universally safe.Howie.........

1. 
   Gretchen | May 15, 2006 06:30pm | #8

   And of all the nut oils, walnut oil goes rancid the quickest.Gretchen

2. 
   a_Furnitologist | May 15, 2006 07:05pm | #9

   Maybe it's just me......... but I don't buy my walnut oil in the super market and have never had a racid smell in the 18 months I've used the finish. 

   I like it because when my nephew starts to chew his wooden train set or bi-plane. I don't worry.

   Like I said....................just an opinion..........Let the Poster do his/her research!!!

   I've been with FWW magazine since its inception and have always been turn-off by this forum because of the exact response from above.

   This forum would be a better tool with more open minds.

   The end from me.......Thank you.

   Neil    http://www.furntiology.com

    

4. 
   highfigh | May 23, 2006 11:18pm | #17

   Food grade mineral oil is available at kitchen supply stores and woodworking stores. Also, there are oils for turned salad bowls and this does leave a film, which you don't really want for a cutting board. Mineral oil will soak in and it works really well. I have a maple board and followed the directions (once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month after). Well, I did for the first two parts and I need to oil it again but things don't soak in and it doesn't smell.

   As others have mentioned, nut oils can be toxic.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
1. 
   Gretchen | May 23, 2006 11:52pm | #18

   I would think that the mineral oil sold in drug stores for less than a dollar is very much "food grade".Gretchen

1. 
   highfigh | May 24, 2006 04:02am | #20

   I would think so but when I bought mine, I didn't think of going there.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   Gretchen | May 24, 2006 06:15am | #21

   So you paid a lot more.Gretchen

1. 
   highfigh | May 24, 2006 07:10am | #22

   It was a few bucks. I wouldn't have paid a LOT more. Just like I won't pay $15 for a bottle of camellia oil at Woodcraft when I have seen it online for $5.And thanks for reminding me."I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   Edited 5/24/2006 12:11 am by highfigh

5. 
   BossCrunk | May 24, 2006 12:03am | #19

   Use a USP grade mineral oil found in the laxative section of a drug store.