Foot Ctrl Switch for PC 7518 rtr in tbl
bones
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
I just purchased a foot switch for a router table I’m building. I got it from Might-T-track. It is rated for 15A @ 125V. I thought it would be a nice addition to Norm’s table plans. I figured it would be safer to keep my hands and eyes on the work and kill the router with a foot switch. It is made by Conntrol . When it arrived it had an additional rating of only a 1/2 horsepower. Since my table will have the PC7518 in it at 3 1/2 HP, will this be a problem? The salesman indicated that they have sold thousands of these for this very purpose, and it should not be a problem. The unit appears to be very beefy and well made. Anybody bought this unit? Thanks in advance.
Replies
Bones, be very careful using a foot control switch with ANY power tool! I know how many times my little wood lathe started up while I was absorbed with adjusting one part or another. At least, position the switch where it stays out of reach while your feet wander as you move about.
When I was 16, My Dad made a foot switch for our first 'Homebuilt' saw table. Jeez! what a dumb idea!
It nearly took off my fingers.
Later, I constructed a foot switch using a switch used on a phone booth door.
When you first pushed the switch,it activated a buzzer . The next push would run the saw and silence the buzzer.Third push, power off.
That was 55 years ago, and I haven't seen one manufactured like that one in all these years.
To build one today, (Due to a dearth of wooden phone booths) you would have to use a stepper relay or a three position plunger switch connected to a step down transformer and a buzzer or piezo electric beeper.
Of course, if you're deaf or never shut of your turn signals (like me) you might use a strobe light as a warning L O L.
Yup, foot controls are passe according to OSHA and there's no BONES about it! Stein
Thanks for the word of caution. I will still have a on off switch on the table as called for in the plans. I plan on incorporating this as an as needed option.
Edited 6/1/2004 4:56 pm ET by bones
Bones, I'll be watching this thread. One of the items I got at the Infamous Auction last month is a vacuum-activated switch rated the same as yours, 15A but 1/2HP. I'm sortof assuming that it's going to be OK to use, given the amperage, but it'll be interesting to see what others say.
BTW, the one I got has a hood over the bulb-like switch so you can't accidentally turn it on.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I have a call into PC and an Engineer is going to call me back. My plan is to have it tucked away in the on position in a cubby hole (sorry no way else to explain it) in the cabinet. I will use another switch for normal use. When I need it, I will pull it out and place it on the floor and use it. When not in use it will be out of site. That's the plan anyway.
I have a variable sped control switch for my router. I like it because it leqaves me a way to switch off the tool from a distance. I don't rely on it to turn the tool on and off though. I nearly got hurt that way once.
Scary stuff.
rank
F.G.: I have one like yours that I use with either the router table or the drill press.
The model I have is what they call the dead-man, which powers the machine only while foot pressure is applied. I think this style is the safest.
Reading the cautions of others, I've been re-evaluating.
re: foot control switch............
Well, I'd get that switch plugged into the 7518 asap. If it burns out the switch, you could then take (or send) it right back to the people who told you it would work
Bones
Please think twice before installing a foot switch for any tool. Over the years I have seen two people I worked with loose fingers as result of foot switches...both had tons of experience using the equipment that they had the accidents on. Are foot operated switches convenient, yes but there is simply something inherently dangerous about using them.
John
Why install a foot switch on a router table? I can't think of any operation where a foot switch would be an advantage and it does increase the risk of an accident.
John W.
I need a foot control switch for my 1/3 hp drill press. Where can I look for one? I have to exactly position the bit before turning on the press and I have to hold the piece with one hand and the spring loaded depth feed with the other.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Lee Valley has them:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=30049&category=1,240,41065&ccurrency=1&SID=
The Porter Cable store here in Houston had that one for $38, including the safety shroud. Identical model.
I've got several micro roller switches rated at 15 amp. I will just make one.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
I got a brand spankin new one you interested?
Bones,
I must caution you about the foot switch idea.
I have the Porter+Cable 3.25 HP router, mounted in a table from Woodpeckers. I used to have a "Billy Pedal" foot switch for my router table. Like you, I thought it would be a good idea to have my hands free. However, I realized some troubling things about it.
The foot switch is located in a particular spot. To turn it off, you have to locate that spot again, keeping your eyes on the router. I don't know about you, but when I am routing, I shift my position at least a step or two, especially with longer boards. I found myself sometimes searching for that foot switch, or having to step towards the router with the board in my hands. Not good.
Also, depending on where you leave that foot switch, you may step on it accidentally and start up the router. Believe me, this is not as far-fetched as it sounds. Remember, you are putting the foot switch in an easy-access location. You are not hiding it under the table. This means it is in an easy-accidental-startup position! The only way to avoid this is to develop the habit of sliding the foot switch under the table after each routing operation -- which is just adds a complication to your routing!
I got rid of the foot switch, and got a power switch with a safety bar, mounted under the table but in an easy-to-reach spot. Much better for me. I bought the one from Woodcraft for about $40. I attached a picture of the power switch.
Here's the link:
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=3812&gift=False&mscssid=941FF726D9FF4F0791C8DD8B652E9C16
Let me add my voice to the chorus:
Don't do the foot switch on the router table. It WILL bite you when you least expect it. It goes against all the hard learned lessons others have learned about what is safe and what isn't.
You'll also find that it serves no useful purpose.
I've seen people hurt themselves on router tables just by trying to brush some dust out of the way AFTER the router was turned off, but before the bit had stopped turning.
Safety precautions aren't for when you are giving the work your full attention. They are for that moment when you get distracted or when your brain skips a beat.
Michael R.
Hi Guys,
Most of the posters seem to agree that an on-off foot switch is a bad idea.
What about wiring the switch in series with a double pole magnetic switch circuit so that you have to "arm" the circuit with a foot switch, and then turn on the magnetic switch to get power to the router?
The magnetic switch would automatically "go to off" when you let up up on the foot switch (or lost power). This would eliminate the accidental starting of the machine which is a big problem while keeping the safety and convenience bones wants.
Busto
Edited 6/2/2004 12:28 pm ET by Busto
Friends,
Here, have and use an industrial-grade foot-switch with a heavy METAL guard. On top of the metal guard, have installed a metal duplex-receptacle where the tool to be controled works.
The tools controled with it are routinely:
1. A large router table with the PC-7518
2. A pin router
3. Recently, the band-saw.
The foot-switch is not mounted anywhere in a permanent position. Instead, it works much like a rather short extension cord that is moved and placed at the proper spot for the task to be performed. When the task is performed, the foot-control switch is unpluged and stored away.
In addition, the foot-switch-extension cord is always pluged into an outlet that has a pilot light, and there's one of those permanently mounted at each of the work-stations. So, when a routing operation is suspended, and one needs to make an adjustment, one flips the switch off, as for when changing router bits.
In the inverted pin-router, additionally, have installed a 10watt lamp inside, close to the router, so that it additionally indicates when there is power to the router. The light is visible through the router table cut-out and it is a very good indication that pushing the foot-switch will run the router, and that one ought not touch the router when the light is on.
With this scheme, one has TWO means in series into the router or bandsaw. So, in effect, it is like having a regular on-off switch AS USUAL, but in series with that is the temporary-pushbutton run/not-run foot-switch. "Run-Not-Run" might be a better term to use for that momentary-contact switch, rather than 'on/off'.
At the band-saw, do not have a pilot light, but where its permanent on-off switch is located, it is very clear to see when that switch is ON or OFF (painted large legends on the plate).
With this scheme, the equipment could still be used by means of its local switch only (as is common) but it is safer to use a temporary run/not-run foot switch for most tasks. Because the foot-switch is shared and portable, and rather short in its extension cord, it is easy to move, use, and store. The practice is to always go bring the foot-switch to control 'run/not run' of the tool.
For a table-saw, DO NOT recommend the use of a run/not-run foot-switch, but an OFF push-button inside a proper box. That button is only for STOPPING the table-saw with the foot by droping the contactor coil. That STOP push-button, is also inside an industrial enclosure in a short cord, which allows the foot-stop switch to be moved to the most convenient place prior to the operation. That button DOES NOT HAVE a guard nor a shroud. It is an industrial mushroom-head heavy-duty button designed to be stepped-on easily, to stop the tablesaw. That one is permanently and exclussively attached for that use.
Of course, there is nothing that can ever be made 'fool-proof'. 'Pay attention' goes on top of all precautions and prescriptions.
-mbl-
Edited 6/2/2004 12:58 pm ET by mbl
Friends,
This is a picture of the footswitch as mentioned, in its simplest use, with the bandsaw.
For the router table, the same identical foot-switch extension is used, but there is a special wiring at the rotuer table.
The portion of cable that appears on the floor just to the left of the switch on the bandsaw table is not part of the scheme. Please ignore it, it is in the background for something else. The ON/OFF switch on the table connects directly to the motor with fixed wiring (not seen) and its input is the plug, which goes onto the foot-switch.
The plug coming off the ON/OFF switch could just as well connect to a standard extension cord, in lieu of the foot-switch shown. Thus the tablesaw plug is rather short on purpose. It is not meant to connect to the wall.
-mbl-
p.s. Sorry, the footswitch was placed backwards on the floor for the photo take. The foot enters rather from the far end shown.
Edited 6/2/2004 9:00 pm ET by mbl
Dear bones,
As to your specific question on the rating of the switch, will say that being 1/2 HP rated it would generally be adequate for the PC-7518. The 1/2 HP is most likely a true inductive motor rating.
The amp ratings given are continuous current rating, not make-break ratings, which are not put on the labels.
Even though the PC-7518 is 'rated' 3.5 HP, it is not a true inductive motor horsepower equivalent, but a 'peak momentary' rating. Additionally, routers are not started on load ever, nor run at full load but perhaps for brief instants, plus they are equipped with soft-start feature, further reducing the make current.
Will also mention that you will not find any foot-switch rated for anything over 1-HP, since it would not be appropriate to break/make any power circuit over that rating with a momentary on/off contact, foot or hand operated device.
For general information, here's a link to the company that makes the one in the picture posted:
http://www.linemaster.com/main.shtml
If you only have the switch and not a full guard, you could very easily make a 1/4" plywood guard (see the ones shown at the site), with about a 3/4" plywood base, and put some anti-skid rubber on the bottom. That's to minimize the chance of unwanted stepping on it. Metal guards are the norm though. But for wood-working use, p.w., is better than nothing.
The switch itself ought to be in its own metal shell enclosure, though, and ought to resist one's weight if one steps on it, without damage.
Best wishes.
-mbl-
My 49 cent foot control switch -
The spring is a brake shoe detent spring. The hinge is a stap of leather. It's wired parallel to the switch on the drill press so both switches will work. Takes heavy foot pressure to activate the foot switch.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
Bones;
All the safety people are correct. A foot switch, however,IS a big convienience and safety factor over reaching around or under something to find a tool's ON/OFF switch. Here is what you need to do:
1, Have a momentary ON/OFF switch that is covered. (You step on it and it's ON, take you're foot off and it's OFF. A perminant ON/OFF is OK when you are controlling a light or vacuum, and is of no consequence when it is accidently stepped on other than to remind you of just how easy it is to step on one of these things)
2, Take up a new religon called "Turn Off The Tool at the Tool Switch" after each use. Otherwise, you will find out just how right the safety "nuts" really are. (you will discover that the foot switch WILL be stepped on when least expected)
3, Make a habit of kicking the switch back into it's little cubby after you're finished with the router job. Otherwise, you'll step on it.
Hope this helps.
Friend,
We are all pro-safety here and no one ought to be against another in a personal way.
The one thing on turning the switch at the tool is that in the case of a router table, the router is inside of a cabinet and its switch is not visible until the door is opened, and at times even is not visible when the door is opened. Having to open the cabinet door to turn off the switch is an extra step, plus, there is no way to know whether one has turned that tool switch on or off other than by opening the door and looking inside. With the PC-7518, checking to see if the switch is ON or OFF actually requires 'feeling' with the hand underneath because the switch rotates as one adjusts the depth of height. So, most often its switch is not at all visible and it is not easy to find and to even remember which way is ON and which way is OFF when it is not visible. That switch was designed to make its operation a little dificult for safety purposes while used in the hand-held mode. And, by the way, other router switches are prettry much that way, so that the ON/OFF legend may not even be visible once the tool is mounted upside-down. Others use a hand-trigger at the handle with a thumb-interlock to stay ON, meaning that having to do that operation with that tool upside down would be cumbersome and disregarded, compromising safety.
Keep in mind that an accidental stepping on a run/not-run foot control switch is even more likely to happen while one is engaged in the routing operation and has made a temporary pause, such as go-get the next piece. With an external fixed switch, the external switch can be flipped off at any time easily. The wiring here is that when that switch is flipped-ON, a small light bulb inside the cabinet lights up, even when the foot-switch is not being pushed.
Having a fixed external switch at a most convenient and easily seen location is a practice easier to follow.
This external switch does not preclude turning the switch at the tool off too.
On top of all that, the practice here is that the foot-switch is used just as an extension cord, and the tool is never plugged into any other outlet but the one installed at the foot-switch itself. The foot-switch is disconnected and stored away when all routing is done.
Best wishes.
-mbl-
Edited 6/5/2004 1:29 pm ET by mbl
Thanks to everyone and the varying opinions. I did speak with an engineer from PC on Friday and he indicated that the switch should be ok. If anything did happen, it would be the switch burning out not the router. I have also considered the impact to safety by having this switch on the floor i.e. stepping on it by accident. After long consideration I will keep the switch with one modification. I will place it in front of a magnetic on off switch. I will keep the fs in the on position in a storage area of the table. I will primarily use the mag switch to cut the router on/off. When I do want to use the foot switch I will pull it out place it on the floor and by stepping on the fs I will also be killing the power the mag switch. Mag switch will go to the off position. At that point accidentally stepping on the fs will have no effect because the mag switch will also have to be cut back on to allow the router to restart. I found one at woodpeckers for $79.00. If anybody knows where to get one cheaper let me know. Thanks again.
Dear bones,
For the function, a simple 15-amp light-switch in a light-switch box would do. It wouldn't be over $5.00.
What'd be the rationale for a magnetic contactor if all needed is a means to disconnect?
-mbl-
The magentic switch will trip if you loss power; preventing the router from coming back on when the circuits re-energize. It gets really scary if you are in the middle of cutting something with a table saw and get a temporary power loss followed immediately by the power coming back on.
Once was enough for me to become a believer!
Busto
But, dear Busto,
We are talking about the router having ALREADY a momentary contact, normally-OPEN foot activated switch. The router does not run unless the foot-switch is depressed.
What you say, just couldn't happen.
-mbl-
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