Replies

1. 
   RSRose | Oct 27, 2002 08:56pm | #1

   Davo,

   From "Sam Maloof, Woodworker," Kodansha International, 1988

   Sam says, (mixture one)

   ". . . equal parts of urethane varnish (semigloss), raw tung oil, and boiled linseed oil. There is enough drier in the linseed oil to activate the raw tung oil. This is applied to the raw, sanded wood three times at one day intervals."

   (mixture 2):

   ". . . equal parts of raw tung oil and boiled linseed oil to which I add shredded beeswax . . . by feel . . . as a cook seasons sauce . . . the reader . . . will have to experiment. The final result is . . . consistency of heavy cream. The oil mixture is heated to melt the beeswax . . . in a double boiler on an electric plate . . . outdoors. Avoid using an open flame. Linseed oil has a very low flash point. BE VERY CAREFUL! Heat the oil until the beeswax just melts. I store this mixture in a gallon can and apply it cold. It is not necessary to reheat it. It has a very long shelf life. Stir before using."

   I don't agree with Sam about the ability of driers in Linseed oil to polymerize Tung oil. Tung does not react to metal driers. It needs to be heat activated to partially polymerize. The tung oil in his mixture just polymerizes very slowly (if it indeed IS raw tung).

   R

   Edited 10/27/2002 1:58:22 PM ET by Rich Rose

   
   

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   Edited 10/27/2002 1:59:37 PM ET by Rich Rose

2. 
   pdeyoung | Oct 27, 2002 09:33pm | #2

   In case you weren't already aware, you can purchase the Sam Maloof poly-varnish/oil blend from Rockler.

   I've used it on Cherry with good success.  I am not familiar with Makore, but the can label says the finish is not good for some woods, such as Rosewood.