On my last table saw, a Felder, I had a slotting cutter, it had a 1/4″ kerf. This was as close as that saw could get to a dado. It came in handy for lots of things besides making little dado passes. Now I have a MiniMax which can take a dado, but because of the 5/8″ arbor, I cant use the same 1/4″ kerf slotting cutter, it was made by Felder and the arbor hole is too big. I’ve been looking at the Forrest Box Joint Set, two blades. One orientation the kerf is 1/4″, the other and the kerf is 3/8″. Has any one used this yet? Can you rip a groove in the edge of a board, or is it mainly for cutting the fingers in the end of boards for finger joints? Bill Lindau
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Are you sure it's Forrest? I think Freud was the first out with the Box Joint set (and I've seen several "it's great" reports). Does Forrest have one now? Bet it's way more expensive, LOL!!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
He's right it is Forrest!
http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/category_41_Box_Joint_Cutter_Set.html
That's cool I guess. It seems to be selling in the same range as the Frued.
I'm actually surprised the Frued didn't have a patent on it...
***
Bill,
Anyway, I own the Frued. I bought it specifically to do finger joints. That said I have used it to cut a groove to fit a drawer bottom.
Buster
Buster
What's the advantage of the box joint cutter over a dado? The dado blade can be set up to cut either 1/4 or 3/8" box joints but the box joint cutter can't do the job of the dado in larger widths. I'm missing something, I know. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
The box joint cutter gives a square cut. There is no knickers to give the "bat ears", to the cut. My understanding is that the blade is designed to cut through the end grain, as is required for a box joint. Second it's a snap to set up. No messing with shims... Okay I just took that off a website...
Now, why did I buy the Box joint as compared to a dado? Mostly money. For the price, you get a blade that cuts box joints VERY well. I don't have much faith in the ability of similarily priced dado's to get the same quality cut.
I really don't think you're missing anything. If I had already owned a dado I would never have bought the blade. I'm glad I did, as it does a great job.
Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. It reminds me of the article in FWW where Steve Latta teaches how to cut dovetails on the table saw using an old blade that has the tips sharpened to 9 degrees and is flat across the top--no chisel work needed in the corners. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
Being designed to cut through end grain, I was wondering how it would do for ripping a groove. What do people use when ripping a groove for 1/4" oak plywood from Home Depot or Lowes that is really less than 1/4". My dado won't go below 1/4". Is there a single blade with a wide kerf? Bill
What do people use when ripping a groove for 1/4" oak plywood from Home Depot or Lowes that is really less than 1/4"
I usually make drawers to accommodate Blum slides. They require a 1/2 inch space under the bottom. I set the table saw (WWII blade) fence to 1/2 inch and 3/16" depth, run all pieces through, then move the fence over about 3/32 " and run a scrap piece. I adjust the fence until I have the right fit, testing with a piece of the plywood I'll be using for the bottom. Once the width of the dado is right, I run all pieces through. While I suppose the bottom of the dado isn't precisely flat, I don't see that it matters. The process is quicker than putting on the dado blades, and mine doesn't cut smaller than 1/4" either.
You can stack two thin kerf blades, possibly with a spacer, to get a sub 1/4" kerf. The blades don't have to be the highest quality, or have a really high tooth count, and they only need to be 8" in diameter, so a "set" won't cost all that much.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
cool
Amazon has the Freud box blade set on sale, 20% of with free shipping....$62 buck delivered.. Mine is on the way (Feb11, 2006).
Keef, I think you'll like it! I'm setting up the jig now, and have run a couple of test boards (oooops, my set-up was off) and the joints are so clean it's a joy. That's a good price. I think I paid $68 at the local hardwood supplier.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Bill,
The Box Joint Set was invented by Freud and we have a patent pending. I regret that I can't actually answer your questions about the Forrest version because I am not sure how how close their design is to ours. The Freud SBOX8 is great for cutting grooves as well as box joints but you will not get great results across grain since there are no bevel teeth.
Freud America, Inc.
Charles, do you make a blade with a 7/32" kerf? Bill
Bill,The only thing we offer that will cut 7/32" wide on a 10" table saw is the SD608 Dial-A-Width Dado set. That is the minimum width for it.
Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled