Replies

1. 
   ctsjr | Nov 20, 2006 03:19am | #1

   If your saw is less than 3 hp, you may want to consider the thin kerf.  If your saw is 3 hp or better, I'd recommend going with the regular kerf blade.  On the advice of the Rockler sales person, I bought a regular kerf blade for my 1.5 hp contractor's saw, and have not been disappointed.  It has plenty of power to cut with the full kerf blade and I've ripped 3" white oak with it several times.  Tom

   "Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
2. 
   JeffHeath | Nov 20, 2006 03:44am | #2

   Forrest blades are as good as it gets for 10" tablesaws.  I have both the thin and regular kerf, but really can't lend any advice, as my 66 has a 5 hp motor.  Both cut hardwoods equally well for me.

   Jeff

3. 
   Knotscott | Nov 20, 2006 04:05am | #3

   Tom's advice is the standard rule of thumb....if you're under 3hp go with the TK. Blades of this caliber shouldn't have deflection issues, and you shouldn't need a stiffener....even though they'd love to sell you one! You'll definitely get more from the motor with the TK...the wood savings is minimal, but the perceived power and less motor strain are real.

   The WWII is a first rate general purpose blade and will do a good job on alot of different cuts and materials. They have a low side relief and tight tolerances....a poorly setup saw or saw with excessive runout will mask the benefits of the blade's ability. Unless you're using another top notch general purpose blade like a Freud F410 or Ridge Carbide TS2000, you should see big improvements from an average general purp blade. If you don't, check to see that something else isn't off with the saw's setup.

   http://www.epinions.com/content_145552674436

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/19/2006 8:11 pm ET by Knotscott

4. 
   highfigh | Nov 20, 2006 05:42am | #4

   They recommend using a stabilizer. I have had my WWII for about 10 years and it has been great. You won't lose that much material compared to the regular kerf and you don't gain power, you just don't lose as much. Keep the blade clean and it'll last a long time.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
5. 
   nikkiwood | Nov 20, 2006 06:24am | #5

   I use the thin kerf WW2; I have the stabilizer, but seldom use it. There may be a difference in cut quality (when using the stabilizer) but it is imperceptible to me.

   I can't scientifically verify this, but it's my perception that this blade seems to stay sharp about twice as long as the others I use.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   bones | Nov 20, 2006 06:43pm | #7

   I use the stablizer on my RAS, and The only thing I see is a redution in the whining.  I do not use one on my tablesaw blade, and no issues. If I had it to do over, I'd save the money on the stablizer. 

6. 
   bones | Nov 20, 2006 06:41pm | #6

   I have the WWII on my 3hp Grizzly, and absolutely love it. It is the thin kerf. I don't know if that saves all that much material, but you will not see a bad cut.  There is a situation you may find with the thin kerf blade. The stock splitter on your saw will probably need to be switched, and there are limited options.  I looked at the bessy splitter, and it just would not work with the thinner blade. I ended up with the Microjig splitter for thin kerf blades, and it has been the perfect fit. pop it out when you need to and pop in back in when you do. I also have the WWI on my RAS, and a 7 1/4 version of the WWII on my PC CS.  I also have the dado king.   I don't think you find any reviews that say they are crap. They aint cheep though. Loook around, the last time I bought one, I found the best price at http://www.coastaltool.com. That was a couple of years ago, but they are very good to work with and ship quick. Take care and good luck.

7. 
   user-227717 | Nov 20, 2006 10:36pm | #8

   I've got a WWII on my tablesaw, a Dado King for my tablesaw, and a Chopmaster on my miter saw. I love them all.

   Some people say they're not worth the money, but I think they are. Also, you can get them on sale (especially this time of year).

    

    

1. 
   NickDay | Nov 21, 2006 07:16am | #9

   Thank you all - I'm convinced! I just ordered the Woodworker II (regular kerf)..

    

   I appreciate all your advice, Nick.

   Edited 11/20/2006 11:37 pm ET by NickDay

1. 
   dgreen | Nov 21, 2006 07:28am | #10

   Nearly fell out of my chair! Best typo I've seen in a while.------------------------------------

    The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer (1891)

2. 
   Napie | Nov 22, 2006 06:08pm | #13

   You will love it, I have had a WWII for about 8 years and it is the best.  Their sharpening service is wonderful also.  Make sure you send it back to them for service.  They can improve your other blades as well.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Nov 22, 2006 06:28pm | #14

   I will second that comment about their sharpening service. I've had my Forrest blades resharpened by the premier outfit around here, and for some reason, they cut better with whatever kind of sharpening they do at Forrest.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

3. 
   BilljustBill | Nov 23, 2006 06:44am | #15

      Nick,

       I don't have a Forrest blade...yet, but I want to tell you a story to help keep your new blade ....NEW.

       I know of a fellow living in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area that spent the money for a Forrest blade and a zero clearance insert.

       During a project, he needed to tilt his blade for an angle cut.  As he tilted it, he noticed his handwheel was getting tighter and tighter.  Suddenly he realized he had left his zero clearance insert in place.  The highly elevated Forrest blade was standing at almost 90 degrees, but his arbor tilt pointer was almost at 45 degrees....

      Somehow, I don't think Forrest's warranty will be covering that, but the blade might make a shop clock, a muddy shoe scraper, or upside-down, a great doorstop...

      Bill

8. 
   JasonWhite | Nov 21, 2006 08:16pm | #11

   If I used a thin-kerf on my tablesaw, the splitter would end up being too thick for the kerf.

   TF

   Toolfanatic (a.k.a. The man formerly known as "Toolfreak")
9. 
   terrylee86 | Nov 22, 2006 05:27pm | #12

   WWII blades are the best I have used for combination work.  I talked to an engineer at Forrest and he said the TK blades were developed for underpowered contractor saws.  He would not recommend them on a large cabinet saw because they could deflect under stress.  Of course I learned this at a woodworking show after owning a TK blade on a PM66.  They have special grind WWII I bought at the show and love it.  The blade stiffener does make a difference on ripping, but not that much.