Can a forstner bit be used in a hand-held drill, or should they only be used in a drill press? Thanks.
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Replies
Seems like the Forstner would be similar to those hole drills that electricians use, in hand-held drills. Might not be very accurate (may be some wobble) compared to in a drill press. What're you doing with it?
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie: Those drill bits that Electricians use are called self feed wood bits..
ToolDoc
Thanks Doc. At least I didn't call them "Thingies" LOL.
Self-feeding -- aren't they all?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie: Self feeding arent they all? NO.. some type wood bits are not self feeding..eg..spade bits..are not self feeding.. the ones with screw feed are the self feeding type wood bits.. and the come in two types coarse & fine thread..
FG, Your learning, can tell your not Blonde..<G>
ToolDoc
> ....Self-feeding -- aren't they all?
Auger bits. Designed for use with a brace. They're great for hogging out holes in 2b-fers for wiring and such. They have a screw thread on the end that provides the self feeding frenzy. Start one in a big 1/2" drill sometimes into a 4x4 and when it's about an inch into the piece, try to pull it out while the drill's runnin'. (hehehe)
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Hi,
Forstner bits were originally designed for use at very slow (hand brace) speed. See the contents of drawer 2 in the attached reference.
http://www.oldhousechronicle.com/archives/vol02/issue14/living/toolchest.html
I'd say use them in a hand drill - just try out your technique on scrap first to make sure. I use mine at slow speed in a drill press.
Cheers, eddie
They can absolutely used in a hand held drill. I use a cordless with the speed cut down as slow as I can make it. You have to guard against catches by insuring the workpiece is clamped down.
One of the more common uses for this with me is to waste the wood between the pins on a half-blind dovetail joint. Use a bit that fills nearly all the space between two pins and set it to cut so that you can see the edge of the bit as it goes down. When you get within a sixteenth of your layout line at the bottom, stop and begin chiseling.
Kell
Dhoov2,
I have not tried it yet but I am tempted too. I think it really depends on the size bit your considering. The hole saws that electricians use does not remove the same amount of wood that a Fostner bit does. The 1/2 drill you would use would have a second handle, that should help...but if you hit a knot...perhaps very carefully is my thinking....however. each time I have found another way...good luck
Using a forstner bit in a portable drill sounds like a good way to break a wrist to me.
Jeff
I need to counterbore for hex head bolts. I'm planning to make a bed or bunk bed for my son. The holes would be 3/4 in diameter. Do they make brad point bits that big? Do brad points leave a flat-bottomed hole? Spade bit seems too rough. Any other possibilities?
Use a good 3/4" auger bit in a brace. Do the counter bore first, of course, then the lead screw on the auger bit retains the center for the bolt hole drilling.
Just a thought.....
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
I use forstner bits up to about 1" in dia. in an variable speed hand drill without any problems. If you drilling shallow like it sounds, you should not have any problems with a bit binding. If you are drilling deep, any bit can bind. If you have a problem with it physically, set the clutch on the drill so that it will slip.
You can get brad point or similar in larger sizes, I have a set that goes up to 1". They are available at Harbor Freight in a set, not to expensive, Chinese imports. (I know that might be a bad word to some, but they work fine) The have longer shafts than the typical forstner bit.
Curt
I have a cheapy set (I think the brand is "Tool Shop") that I bought from one of the big boxes. They are definitely cheap, but work well enough I suppose. The set goes up to 2 1/8" I believe. I used a hand drill with the 1 1/2" bit to drill a 4" hole in the end grain of hard maple (I was installing an end vice in my bench). What a chore. My arms, chest, and abs hurt like hell for a couple of days afterward. Keep the speed down and you should be alright.
Richard,
Better start hittin' the gym.
Rich
DHoov2,
I use my forstner bits in a brace all the time (I have no drill press). I see no reason they couldn't be used in a hand drill--so long as the speed was kept way down.
Alan
you can buy large diameter counterbores which will mount on a drill bit. they cut extremely cleanly. we used them quitye a bit for boatwork. i'll try to find a link for you.
another, and probably less expensive option is to use a traditional auger bit in a brace to counterbore. this must be done BEFORE the hole for the bolt is drilled or the auger's lead screw will ahve nothing to grab. the lead screw will give you a nice centered hole to start your through drilling in.
check back for the link on the counterbores.
This is from what I've read.. not what I've done.. but I read you should be able to use a forstner bit in a hand held drill if you clamp the work and use a slow speed. Forstner bits, even carbide bits, will immediately dull to unusable if spun too fast.
all right, what you want is a fuller type x counterbore....
here's a link, don't know how great their prices are, but they are not as expensive as i thought they might be... you could also check jamestown, a supplier of fasteners to boat trades...
http://nationalindsupply.com/Fullerpr.htm#txctrbrs
I do what your talking about all the time. For example, drilling the hole (with a hand drill) for a concealed hinge on a cabinet door on the job site. Sometimes you have make a repair on the spot or something similar. In most instances, I am not afforded the luxury of bringing my drill press into a client's kitchen. They always seem to get so upset about the "wood chips on the counter tops" thing.
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