Does anybody have any experience with the forstner bits sold on ebay? How do they hold up and are they a worthwhile purchase?
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Replies
Since there are everything from high end german bits to chinese junk, your question is a bit too broad. The cheap sets are just that, cheap. They work, even the crappiest ones. It helps if you sharpen them up yourself before use.
I use a LOT of those bits, I have a set that has them by 1/16ths. They will NOT cut as clean a cut as a nice new German bit but then, you will pay more for ONE german bit than you will for a set of the cheap ones.
For a plainer answer, they work okay and are fine for occasional use, especially if you learn to sharpen them up yourself.
I have both the regular set and the filler sets of bits from Grizzly. I do not recall the cost but they are inexpensive and do a creditable job. I also have several Conneticut Valley bits, excellent bits but costly.
mike
I have been very happy with the HSS forstner bits from Lee Valley. As someone who has bought and sold a lot of stuff on e-bay it can be a crap shoot. I would say if they are not name brand on e-bay you are taking a risk also be sure to factor in any shipping charges. Good luck.
Troy
"How do they hold up and are they a worthwhile purchase?" That's like asking "Are the cars from Auto Row good?" eBay is a venue not a brand. I went the same route with Forstner bits that I went with brad-point drill bits: Bought a large inexpensive set and will replace the most-often-used bits with quality bits as they wear out. Mastergrip for the Forstners, Hickory for the brad-point.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
pqken,
There are a lot of forstner bits sold on eBay!!!
I have the Freud 16-piece Diablo boxed set. I have used them numerous times. Even on my crappy Grizzly drill press they do a great job.
Here's the set I got:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000225ZN/qid=1127935116/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i1_xgl60/104-4380984-6908749?v=glance&s=hi&n=507846
Hi,
Just finished putting my drill press together the other night. It's a 10" mastercraft drill press that I received as a birthday present. I have no idea how it stacks up against other brand name drill presses.
I want to try out my forstner bits and was wondering what speed to choose. I'll be countersinking #8 1 3/4" screws in to 3/4 inch pine. Right now I have the belt on the middle setting. This particular drill press comes with 5 speeds. Hopefully I have the belt tentioned correctly.
Wendy
Hi, Wendy,
I have no idea what the speed should be! I suggest you try it at the one you have selected, and see how it goes - don't let it start smoking. You can then try it ia a faster or slower speed if you think it's a bit lacking. As a general rule I run smaller diameter ones at a faster speed to get the same rim-speed.
Good luck - let me know how you get on.
Ozzy
Here's a chart. I have to say, though, I know I run my Forstners at higher speeds than specified in this particular chart.
Forget that one, here's a better one:http://www.woodsmith.com/main/pdf/137-bit-speed-chart.pdf
Takes into consideration the material, has other types of bits listed.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 9/29/2005 12:41 pm ET by forestgirl
Anyone know where I could buy solid carbide forstner bits in 7/16" & 9/16" sizes?
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
http://www.sharpco.ca/bormax-forstner.html
I was not aware they made Solid Carbide Forstner Bits? Anyway, the bits at the above site look interesting?
Edit to add: CMT USA, Inc. says it has a line of Solid Carbide Dowel Drills designed to meet the demands of today’s high-speed production machinery. The bits are made of a tough new super-micrograin carbide formula developed for high-speed industrial applications. The carbide holds a sharp edge longer, yet remains flexible enough to withstand prolonged high-speed production runs, says the company. The solid carbide body construction allows multiple resharpening and no tips to twist off during production runs.
Edited 9/29/2005 11:11 pm ET by rich1107
Mike, Leitz do them, but according to this catalogue only in metric sizes from 15mm to 80mm. Anything smaller in diam is made in the tct tipped twist drill format.
The head office for Leitz in the States is in Grand Rapids, phone (800)253-6070-outside of Michigan.
Why do you want the whole thing to be carbide? What are you making there?I thought your main scene was spivving up planes ;)Philip Marcou
Phillip -
75% of my business is making reproduction handles and knobs for planes. The types of wood I use do a number on the HSS Forstner bits pretty quick. I get maybe 100 sets before having to pitch them in the 'dull' drawer. I have been purchasing the HSS bits at Lee Valley. I have found several places that sell solid carbide forstner bits - just not in the sizes I need. I use other sizes so infrequently that purchasing a set is not cost effective.
I also need a 9mm size for doing #1 handles and knobs, but no one seems to have that size either in carbide or HSS.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Mike,
Re the 9mm size-I would have thought you would be better off re-grinding the tip of an ordinary hss engineers twist drill to suit, as forstners are not so efficient in the smaller sizes in my experience.Surely you can't be drilling so many holes to require carbide? I feel that carbide can be over-rated in some applications.
I always pick up those bigger twist drills with the reduced shanks at second hand places when I see them and grind them so they have a slight point and can drill a flat bottom hole.Philip Marcou
Mike, So where do you come down on the LV Forstners? When they go dull, do you toss them?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
No, I don't pitch them. Sometimes I dress up the flats with a diamond stone. Get's a little more life out of them. The main problem is the cutting edge on the outside radius gets dull. The part that hits the wood first. That is a little more difficult to dress up. If I could get 5 times more life out of a carbide bit, then it would be profitable to get some. I would hope to get 15 or 20 times more life.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Edited 9/30/2005 11:09 pm ET by PlaneWood
mike, can you give us an indication of how many and what sizes of holes you drill?Philip Marcou
90% of the holes I drill are 7/16" and 9/16". 2 of each size for each handle and knob set. The number I drill depends on how many orders I receive. :)
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
These guys might have, or make them, for you. Based on this claim on their website:
"Woodworking drills, carbide auger drills, wood boring drills,Timber drills, carbide router bits, carbide: Tenon cutters,counter bores, countersinks, plug cutters,carbide hole saws, step drills, brad points, fishtail, tapered drills,Mortise Bits, Carbide Saw Blades, Forstner bits and more.MANUFACTURED,WE'LL HAVE IT!Or custom manufacture it for you!"
http://www.advantage-drillbits.com/welcome.html
One of the reasons I like the Chinese forstner bits is because I can regrind them to custom sizes myself for a fraction of what it would cost to have one done by a manufacturer.
One can do them in a drill press quite easily. Using a wood turners trick, I file two opposing flats on the drill so that it is near (10-20 thousandths or so) the final diameter. I then use a portable belt sander on its side to rough off the material. Then as it gets close I switch to a 2X2 piece of hardwood with 220 wet/dry sandpaper and some oil and finish reducing the diameter.
I now have a small metal lathe and I use a dremel as a "tool post grinder" to do the same thing. If you have a good three jaw in a wood lathe, you could set up the same thing.
I make lots of reproduction parts for old machineguns and other military weapons and am always having to drill odd hole sizes.
Hi FG,
Thanks for the info. I just finished printing out the chart. I'll be sure to post that on my wall.
Gotta ? for you concerning finishing. I"m looking for a clear finish that won't amber. So far I've only used polyurethane on my furniture. I'm looking for a more natural look. I tested a small piece of wood with an acrylic finish but I wasn't happy with the way that turned out. I chose that because it said on the can.. low odour and easy clean up. The finish Hardly looked like it coated the wood. Satin is just too flat. did nothing to enhance the natural grain of the pine. Polyurethane leaves an "amber" appearance.
Wendy
Sorry, Wendy, I won't be much help on your finishing question -- not enough experience with the various options out there. Someone can help, though!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Hi Wendy,
Waterborne finishes typically do not amber. That being said, however, you will need to read the labels carefully as there are some waterborne products that have amber-colored additives to mimic the appearance of traditional oil products; Rockler has such a product, called WunderCote (it's awful).
The biggest challenges with waterborne products are (1) pre-grain-raising is necessary; (2) bubbles that dry in the finish will need to be removed with sandpaper or a Scotchbrite pad. Don't use steel wool with waterborne products: if any lingers, it will rust.
As with all finishing projects, It's best to go through the entire finishing finishing process on a piece of scrap (of the same species) before you finish your completed project.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Edited 10/2/2005 12:32 pm ET by jazzdogg
Wendy,
As jazzdog says, waterborne finishes are clearer. One way to get around the grain raising is to apply a coat of sanding sealer first. I use Zinser BullsEye - it's really just 2# cut de-waxed blond shellac. Light sanding with 400 once it's dry and you're good to go.
Wendy, choose any number of finishes or products that list as "water white". Thats the industry jargon for not amber. aloha, mike
I also have the set from Grizzly, and the 1/16" filler set. They do a good job (an excellent one for the price), on my really nice Grizzly drill press. ;)
Barry,
Lucky you. Which model do you have?I have the one they advertised as "our best"! If you would like to trade, let me know. I'll offer the same deal for anyone else out there who loves Grizzly.
Edited 9/30/2005 10:03 am ET by MatthewSchenker
It's the G7948 20" floor standing.
I end up driving through Bellingham a few times a year (mostly business trips to Vancouver, B.C., a really nice city). So I have an advantage over you of looking something in the showroom over before buying it. I usually pick it up there and avoid the "freight shipping experience", too.
'last trip I found out there was a Lee Valley retail store in Vancouver. 'was a good trip.
Barry,
I'm serious about trading! Anybody who thinks Grizzly is a great deal should have the chance to own my drill press.
I have a set of Tool-Shop ones from a Big-Box..
16 bits.. 1/4 to 2 1/8 I think.. Cost about $30.00 for the set..
Well, they make holes.. All I need usually! Far from GREAT tools but for the price Nice enough for most stuff.
Before I bought my forstner bits, I looked on Ebay too. I wasn't too impressed. It's just like those router bit sets for $50 that you see tons of on there. I wanted a really nice set that would last me a while. I went with the freud diablo's. You can buy them online at freudtools.com for a decent price. Not cheap but a decent price for well know quality bits.
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