Forstner Maxicut versus Bormax
With the use of an adequate drill press (I have a one-horsepower), and assuming appropriate drill speed, bit feed pressure, chip removal management, etc., does anyone have experience with both the Famag Bormax Forstner Bits (not the Bormax3 carbide-tipped) and the Miebach Colt Maxicut Forstner Bits in hardwoods? I do not want to have to buy only one-bit of each brand and comparatively test the two myself. What is the opinion out there about which bit would hold it’s sharpening life and/or drill the cleanest holes in all types of hardwoods (say up through cocobolo in density) and for all types of holes (straight, angled, overlapping, etc.)? It would probably be used most in oak, maple, cherry, etc. though. I’m leaning towards the Maxicut as it is the newer sensation of the two, I’ve read the Bormax bits can be a little more aggresive perhaps resulting in a rougher hole with all of the teeth (but maybe a little better for exotic hard hardwoods), and I like the non-slip shanks and high-speed steel of the Maxicut too. I know there both great and raved about bits, and i likely can’t go wrong with either, but which one would be better for all-around fine quality and fine-woodworking use in hardwoods (not softwoods)? I think after researching Forstner bits, I’ve read just about everything, and I mean everything, available on a home computer and through dozens of various Google searches. Unfortunately, Maxicut and Bormax were not a part of the FWW review in 2008. The winner there the straighter-edge Famag, is staed in various places to not really be meant for hard hardwood or exotic woods. Thanks.
Replies
I have no experience with the bits you mentioned but looking at them and reading the adverts makes me think they are misleading. They say their bits are better than other types, what they don't say is that they are better than "all" other types. This is an important distinction. The old style bits with a knife edge around the perimeter are poor performers in hardwoods and end grain. The wave edge is probably an improvement. Is that edge better than the bits with the saw tooth perimeter or better than carbide tipped bits? I don't think so.
A key to Forstener bits is to clamp the work so it can't move, drill gradually at the correct speed and use a judicious feed. Keep the debris cleaned out of the hole and use a dry spray lubricant. This will improve the cutting and extend the life of any Forstener bit. You'll get excellent results with inexpensive imported saw tooth bits.
Considering how infrequently I actually need a Forstener style bit, I sure wouldn't pay those high prices. If there was a frequent use I put them to, I'd go carbide, such as for Euro type hinges.
I would not spend the money for the bormax. I have a set, and they don't stay sharp for very long.
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