Replies

1. 
   brownman | Jan 10, 2011 02:27pm | #1

   If I were building this piece I would make my frame and panel sides all one piece. That would be the proper and most normal way to construct it. Plan your panel rails to conincide with where you want your shelf dadoes. Although from your description it sounds like you've already made your frame and panel sides. Dadoing the shelves will be ok to do, but have you considered making this a stackable unit, with the shelves rabetted into the tops and bottoms of each frame and panel? You could stack them just using loose dowels. Makes moving much easier.

      To address your other question, again, if this were my piece ,I would put a stretcher across the top  rear ,at least three inches wide to help stiffen the cabinet. I would  attach it  on the inside of the cabinet using pocket hole screws( on the rear of the stretcher, so the screws aren't showing from the front) using of course a matching piece of pecan. If you don't have a pocket hole jig you can always screw from the outside and use plugs to cover screw holes or nail and glue from the outside. The strecher not only gives the cabinet  rigidity but you can also be used it to fasten through to the wall so it won't tip over if a youngster tries to climb on it.

1. 
   cutawooda | Jan 10, 2011 11:30pm | #3

   That is what I have done. I built both sides as a unit. Each side is a unit 68 inches tall. After I shape the panels they will be ready for glue up. The face frame is glued up all ready. I just need to make my bottom for the drawers, stationary shelf out of a glued up pecan and another top of plywood.  I planned my middle rail of the sides so that the stationary shelf above drawers can slip into a dado in that rail.

   I think i m ok in my thinking since you are concurring with my thoughts. I agree about the back support.

   I am traveling now so when i get home I will add a sketch for you to look at. I hate to bother you so much but i dont want to get too far into this and realize that I have screwed up 300 dollars worth of lumber.

   thanks for the help

1. 
   brownman | Jan 11, 2011 03:29am | #4

   Actually if your face frame is substantial, you really don't need a stretcher across the top back . Your 1/4" panel should be suffient, unless you want the extra support and a piece for fastening to the wall. If your fixed shelf is made from  glued up boards of  solid pecan then remember to only fasten the shelf in the center on each side to allow for normal wood movement due to humidity changes, or from the back only as another poster has suggested, otherwise your selves will crack  over time.  I built my  kitchen  cabinets from Hickory/Pecan many years ago when Hickory wasn't popular yet and it is a hard , hard, wood . Has held up very well over the years.

1. 
   cutawooda | Jan 26, 2011 03:54pm | #6

   thanks for the help

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/34971/pecan-bookcase

2. 
   cutawooda | Jan 26, 2011 03:54pm | #7

   thanks for the help

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/34971/pecan-bookcase

2. 
   whitedogstr8leg | Jan 10, 2011 02:35pm | #2

   I make a frame and panel style of back.   If you use just a plywood panel for the back, set it rabbets let into the sides.   Install with nails and glue.  

   I use a frame and panel construction for all of the chest of drawers I build.  Yep, you can dado for shelves, as long as it is not along a plywood panel.   I set a plywood back into the back of the case's sides.    Of course, with a chest of drawers, I can nail into the web-frames the my drawers slide on.   If thier is a fixed shelf on your project, fasten the back there.

   Frame and panel:

   
3. 
   cutawooda | Jan 26, 2011 03:52pm | #5

   thanks for the help guys. Posted in the gallery for the world to critique.

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/34971/pecan-bookcase