Long ago I read that “rotten stone” is used for French polish, although two recent FWW articles use fine pumice. Which is better for the purpose? How fine a particle size do you need?
I was in an antique store that had a table with French polish. The owner said that it was high maintenance because fingerprints show up more on French polish than on other finishes. He had to re-wax the table every time a customer touched it. Does this sound typical?
How about French polish for a cherrywood bench? It would get a lot of use, but not that many fingerprints.
Janet
Replies
Janet,
Pumice comes in two grits 2F and 4F with 4F being the finest. The latter is the norm used to fill pores during a French polish. I know some who use rottenstone. For me, 4F is perfectly fine.
Concerning the "French polished" table; first if it were a French polish and was done properly, it would not print. The printing could be caused by the oil used in the polishing process not being removed properly or entirely. Or it could just be the wax the owner put on it. If the wax used is a softer variety, it will tend to print as will the multiple coats he is applying. A good buffing would probably rectify that.
Rarely have I come across the owner of an antique shop who actually knew anything about finishes.They will call anything with a shiny surface French polished as it is the buzzword potential clients will need to hear. It may seem like a jaundiced view but one that is borne out of experience. I've seen more harm done to furniture finishes by dealers who have absolutely no clue what they are doing. You'll really hear the whining when they have to pay to have it fixed.
"I've really got too much into this already! How much will it cost?? Can't we make it up on the next one???"
Concerning your bench: you'll be better served with a varnish like Waterlox which is simplicity personified to apply.
Good luck.
Peter has it right on all counts--especially the knowledge of antique shop people. It was probably poly! Not sure what he was doing waxing it that much anyway!!
YOu need the ease of a wipe on NON=poly varnish. It will be beautiful and durable.
Recently I saw an article that said if a piece of furniture is dusted regularly it should be waxed every six months; if not dusted regularly it should be waxed at most once a year.
Checked my french polishing articles today. Saw a reference to 4F pumice at the beginning to fill pores in one article, a reference in another to using rottenstone at the end to rub out the finish.
Rottenstone may be needed to rub out shellac which has been brushed on padded on. But no rubbing out should be needed when the French polish process has been completed, and excess oil has either been "spirited off" or otherwise removed.
Polish
Janet,
If you're repolishing the bench and it has an existing finish - you don't need to worry about filling the grain. The person in the antique store sounds as though he doesn't have restoration experience.
SA
The bench used to have a very thick, shiny layer, but it was chipped and had to be removed. It was also too shiny for my taste so I plan to use a different finish. However, when I was a kid I just loved sliding off the bench after it had been waxed. Wouldn't mind keeping that aspect of the finish.
I've never heard of Waterlox. Who carries it?
Janet
French polish is very very shiny, yet nothing like a thick layer that could chip off. It ends up extremely thin, and yet with extreme "depth".
On a more practical note, Waterlox is carried at specialty woodworking stores and at good independent paint stores. My local umberyard, which has a strong paint department carries it. It is also available at a number of online outlets. It is very good varnish. You can choose either the Original/Sealer, which has already been thinned to wipe on consistency, and which yields a very nice mellow gloss (semi-gloss), there is also Satin and Gloss which have higher solids content, ready for brushing from the can, but thinnable for wipe on application. m
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