Replies

1. 
   John_D | May 04, 2006 02:05am | #1

   I have a Unisaw, not a PM66, but the design is pretty much the same.  In my Delta manual, here's what it says on this topic (the caps and grammar are theirs, sorry):

   NOTE: THE OUTSIDE ARBOR FLANGE CAN NOT BE USED WITH THE DADO HEAD SET, TIGHTEN THE ARBOR NUT AGAINST THE DADO HEAD SET BODY.  DO NOT LOSE THE OUTSIDE ARBOR FLANGE, FOR IT WILL BE NEEDED WHEN REATTACHING A BLADE TO THE UNISAW ARBOR.

   What you call the "factory stabilizer washer" is undoubtedly what Delta calls the "outside arbor flange."

   What you really WILL find unsafe is attaching your dado blade with some of the arbor nut's threads disengaged.  You do NOT want that bad boy slipping off your arbor while spinning!

   So I think you will probably need to leave the flange/stabilizer off, but would encourage you to check your own user manual (or check with Freud or PM) if you've any doubt whatsoever.

   EDIT: Changed "DATA HEAD SET" to "DADO HEAD SET" for obvious reasons. :)

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/4/2006 4:06 pm by John_D

2. 
   forestgirl | May 04, 2006 03:30am | #2

   Betcha Charles-from-Freud will pitch in here tomorrow.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

3. 
   ORIF | May 04, 2006 05:45am | #3

   Don't know if its correct, but it works on my PM66 without problems. I Don't feel safe doing any larger then 3/4 in though.

   dpr

4. 
   charlesm | May 04, 2006 02:07pm | #4

   Joe,

   It is correct to leave off the outer washer and use only the nut to secure the SD600 Dial-A-Width dado.

   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

1. 
   joepez | May 04, 2006 05:13pm | #5

   thanks for all the replies,

   and yes, i was referrering to the arbor flange. Could'nt think of it at the time i was posting.

   Charles, I love the dial system. I had a regular stacked dado set, but I was so tired of the trial and error, took the bait with your dial dado 8" and I am very happy with the quality of the dado cut.

   However, I also have one of your lu 93 blades, which I had hoped would produce a better rip cut. I switched back to the <OTTHER BLADE> , slowed the feed rate and got the desired results. I was ripping 3/4 red oak. is the lu 93 suited for thicker material, and if so would i have gotten a better result?

1. 
   charlesm | May 04, 2006 05:17pm | #6

   Joe,We don't offer an LU93 in the US. Can you verify the item number for me?
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

1. 
   mudman | May 04, 2006 05:41pm | #7

   Charles,

   I reciently bought my first Freud cabinet door bit set. I have 3 other sets from CMT and DML. I am very impressed with the quality of this set. It is at least as good as my DML sets and much better than the CMT set. Between your comentary here (just advice, never pushy sales schtick) and my experience with this set I will be looking at Freud products more often now.

   Mike

1. 
   charlesm | May 04, 2006 05:56pm | #8

   Mike,That's great to hear! Thank you for the kind words.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

2. 
   DougU | May 04, 2006 07:09pm | #9

   Charles

   On a different subject; are you/freud going to be offering different profiles for your passage door bits/sets?

   I was at Woodsmith in Des Moines, Ia. last week and I saw the new bits for passage doors but I prefer one of the other common profiles over the one that I saw.

   Thanks

   Doug

3. 
   charlesm | May 04, 2006 07:15pm | #10

   Doug,There are two more profiles scheduled for production and they should be in stock by the end of summer. What profile are you looking for?
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

4. 
   DougU | May 04, 2006 07:53pm | #11

   Charles

   I believe the set that I need is the ogee, not sure if thats what you'd call it. I dont have a catalog handy.

   I believe the set that you currently have out is the bead? I saw it real quick and not 100% sure.

   Doug

5. 
   charlesm | May 04, 2006 09:32pm | #12

   Doug,One of the two new profiles will be an ogee similar to the one seen in many commercially produced doors. IIRC, the other is a cove and bead.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

6. 
   DougU | May 05, 2006 06:23am | #13

   Thanks Charles

   The ogee, even if its close will do what I need, and since I dont need them until Oct or Nov. I'll just sit back and wait.

   Doug

2. 
   joepez | May 05, 2006 04:58pm | #14

   Charles,

   Sorry for the mistake. It is a brand new LM 74.

    I paid about $60.00 for it, and was just expecting a smoother rip cut. It left a minor amount of burning on the red oak, but that was ok. I was not happy with the visible saw blade marks though, quite pronounced compared to other ripping opperations I have done. I bought the blade specfically to rip about 800 linear feet of red oak for hardwood flooring I was milling.

   Any thoughts,did I choose the wrong blade? I dont think itwas a feed problem, as the pm 66 is well tuned and I used 2 feather boards, with a spliter. 

   thanks for your thoughts.

   joe p

1. 
   charlesm | May 05, 2006 05:10pm | #15

   Joe,Sorry to hear of your dissatisfaction with that blade. For 1-1/2" and thinner the LM74 is the ideal rip blade and should leave a super smooth edge. Burning is usually caused by too slow feed rate, misaligned saw or stock too thick for the blade. Tooth marks are usually cased by msaligned saw, incorrect or missing splitter or not enough teeth on the blade. Since you have both issues I am a little puzzled. If you are going to try to diagnose the problem I suggest starting with the splitter and make sure it is the correct width and is aligned properly. Otherwise, I would be happy to check the blade for you to verify there are no defects. PM or email me and I will give you the address.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

2. 
   joepez | May 05, 2006 09:42pm | #17

   Charles,

   I am using a spliter with a small offset, could this be the problem. I think I will try it with no offset on the spliter, and I'll  post my results this weekend. It is not my intent to disparage your product at all. I am using a micro jig spliter. I will also double ck the saw/fence alignment.

   Again, could'nt be happier with the 8" dial a dado.

   Regards Joe P 

3. 
   charlesm | May 05, 2006 10:20pm | #18

   Joe,I certainly didn't think you were disparaging. Even though I feel that we are one of the most consistent brands in terms of high quality manufacturing, no one is immune to defects and I want to be sure you have the best product possible. The splitter could be the problem and I will be interested in your results.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

4. 
   joepez | May 10, 2006 08:30pm | #25

   Charles,

   Sorry for the delay. Well the results are in. I had two problems going on.

   1st- the pheonolic face on my fence was concave at just the point of where piece meets the blade, by a fair amount.

   2nd- the micro jig I use had the plus .002 pushing against the fence, in turn pushing the work piece against the fence.

   I corrected the fence, removed the splitter, and presto, no burning. Thanks very much for your tips.

   By the way, the blade has a great feed rate , with a great cut too!

   Regards  Joe P

5. 
   charlesm | May 10, 2006 08:48pm | #26

   Joe,Thank you for the update. I'm glad to hear the blade is performing correctly.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

6. 
   forestgirl | May 06, 2006 07:36pm | #19

   "I am using a spliter with a small offset...."  What, may I ask, is the logic behind having an offset splitter??forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

7. 
   joepez | May 06, 2006 10:32pm | #20

   I believe micro jig refers to the offset as .001-.003 to apply slight presure to keep the workpiece tight against fence. I have used it for a while now, and so far so good, but now I need to make sure that this is not the reson for above discussion. Prior to this ripping oporation, I have not had any problems with this splitter.

   Joe P

8. 
   forestgirl | May 06, 2006 11:49pm | #21

   Hmmmmmm, problem with that approach is, it pushes the trailing edge of the wood (closest to the operator) in the other direction.  I prefer a featherboard just in front of the blade m'se'f.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

9. 
   mudman | May 07, 2006 05:33am | #22

   Forest Girl is right. offsetting the splitter,  toeing out the blade or fence and anything other than dead on straight and square just causes trouble else where. A feather board is the tool for keeping stock to the fence.

   Mike

10. 
    storme | May 07, 2006 07:07am | #23

    Hi Charles, If I may pile on, will the d-a-d work with the Bosch 4000 portable saw? Any particular concerns with a lightweight saw like this? I'll be mostly cutting plywood and redwood.

11. 
    DougU | May 07, 2006 07:29am | #24

    storme

    I have no experience with the d.a.d. but I use the Freud 508 on my Bosch 4000 and its no problem at all.

    I believe that the manual says its OK, I really dont read those things but someone else said it was there!

    Doug

12. 
    mudman | May 05, 2006 05:56pm | #16

    Sorry but I agree with Charles, what you describe is textbook misalignment.

    Mike

5. 
   XMLNut | May 11, 2006 09:11am | #27

   Joe it seems to be a safe operation but Delta has a replacement Arbor nut assembly that now has and integral flange. You might check with WMH to see if they have something similar. If I remember correctly the Delta nut wont fit the powermatic.

1. 
   mudman | May 11, 2006 06:05pm | #28

   Even if you have the newer nut/flange set, it still won't work with a dado stack over 1/2". The nuts' threads stop about 1/4" ,or more, from the flange. Delta includes a second nut to use with dados that is just a nut with no washer. Plus I have heard from manufacturers that you should not use a washer with two or some three wing chipper dado sets because the washer can bend the outer blade around the chipper.

   Mike