Replies

1. 
   woodworker79 | Sep 26, 2005 09:12pm | #1

   I'm just getting underway using a match set. So far, they are ok. I've only made a "test" door (to get my wife's approval on the style). I've noticed a little mismatch that shows up on the backside of the joint. It may be because of a set up issue that I haven't fine tuned out yet, but I doubt it. There isn't much play in that area to fine tune.

   The panel bit is a disappointment to me. I have a back cutting bit. I expected a bearing in between the back cutter and panel cutter. There is only a solid shaft. I've been told by Freud that it is acceptable to let the wood rid on this shaft. I'm taking their word yet. I haven't tried the arch tops yet. I was just disappointed because I thought the bearing would be there. I guess it would have weaken the attachment to the back cutter, but I've seen other companies do it, so I'm not sure why they couldn't.

   Bottom line, I don't have alot to compare to, but so far I'll call them OK.

   Good luck,
   Tim

1. 
   charlesm | Sep 28, 2005 08:43pm | #9

   Tim,The Freud RP w/BC bits could be made like the others with a ball bearing between the cutters but we consider a ball bearing to be unnecessary and it limits the width of the profile. Ours are the only ones available that cut a full 1-1/2" wide.In regards to the R&S bits, a manufacturing defect is a possibility but it is rare. A gap on the back of the door joint is typically caused by the fence preventing a full depth of cut. Another cause is runout in the router spindle and/or the spindle not being exactly perpendicular to the table. If you like you can send the bits to me and I will be happy to test them.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

1. 
   woodworker79 | Sep 28, 2005 09:02pm | #10

   Charles,I do understand the reason behind not having a bearing now. It worries me a little, but I will go with it because that is the bit I have bought already. If I have a different opinion after some extensive use, I will post it.As for the mismatch, like I said before, I hadn't spent too much time investigating why this is the case. I will try the set up again very soon and will let you know if I can get rid of the mismatch. Your probably right, I probably didn't have the fence set up properly.I should have said it before, but I will say now that they do cut great.Tim

1. 
   charlesm | Sep 28, 2005 09:35pm | #11

   Tim,Sorry, I didn't mean to put you on the spot. Just trying to understand the problem and help where I can.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

2. 
   plumbbill | Sep 29, 2005 02:56am | #13

   "wood ride on shaft" you have to be kidding me that a reputable firm like Freud would say that.

   Now I know I don't know everything but I have yet to see that being acceptable.

1. 
   DougU | Sep 29, 2005 07:17am | #14

   I do it all the time, works OK.

2. 
   charlesm | Sep 29, 2005 02:09pm | #15

   Technically, it's not the shaft. The wood rides on a solid pilot between the cutters. The only potential drawback would be some burning of the edge but since the edge will be inserted into the groove that is not an issue. The advantages are that the profile is not reduced in width and the bit is stronger.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

1. 
   maxp | Sep 29, 2005 06:24pm | #16

   charles - not to change the subject, but i recently bought one of freuds 5 piece door sets (shaper cutters) nice set and box by the way- my question is does freud recommend 3/4 or 5/8 panel thickness-i obviously haven't raised panels yet any suggestion

1. 
   charlesm | Sep 29, 2005 07:00pm | #17

   The UC-900 Shaper Set is intended for 3/4" stock rails, stiles and panels. HTH.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

2. 
   maxp | Sep 29, 2005 08:15pm | #18

   thanks- hey also i purchased the dial a width dado set and haven't used it yet- someone mentioned it wouldnt fit  their saw- am i going to have any arbor fit trouble with my delta genx unisaw

3. 
   charlesm | Sep 29, 2005 08:55pm | #19

   My apologies to the OP for hijacking the thread.It should fit fine. Max width is based on the lessor of the arbor length minus thickness of the nut minus 7/32" for the hub or the max indicated by the manufacturer.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

4. 
   maxp | Sep 29, 2005 09:02pm | #20

   my apologies also - i will try to stick to the original thread in the future

2. 
   plumbbill | Sep 29, 2005 09:55pm | #21

   Yeah once I actually thought about it it makes sence. When I saw that ride on shaft comment it just reminded me of all cheap craftsman bearingless bits I have that I got for christmas from family members who knew I did wood working.

   I have a full drawer of these does any one know what to do with hss bits----I was thinking fishing weights.

2. 
   Midnight | Sep 26, 2005 10:12pm | #2

   Been using them for over 3 years... gave them a work out tonight as a matter of fact...

   Saying they're awesome doesn't do them justice... If I needed to, I'd replace them with an identical set in a heartbeat...

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   ktkamm | Sep 26, 2005 10:30pm | #3

   Could you tell me what set(s) you have. Thanks.

   Kieran

1. 
   Midnight | Sep 26, 2005 10:47pm | #4

   I don't have the part # to hand; it was the 5 piece set, panel raising bit is top bearing guided with no back cutter; set came with a multi-profile moulding bit and an edge jointing bit...

   Gimme a shout if you need the part #... the catalogue's in the shop right now...Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

3. 
   duke | Sep 27, 2005 04:30am | #5

   I just purchased a matching set the other weekend.  The model number is 99-260.  I set them up in my router table and did a test run on some rails and stiles to check the fit.  I was impressed with the joint but more so with the ease of setting up the bits and getting them to align so well.  From what I have read I was led to believe that this set-up is a very tedious and time consuming process.  In my experience this was not the case.  In other threads and articles I have read one of the things that is stressed is the importance of milling your stock to a uniform thickness and to not rely on factory surfaced/thicknessed lumber as it can vary enough to throw off the joint.  I ran the bits with my Bosch 1617EVS 2 1/4 hp router and there was little to no resistance as I pushed the wood through-the bits cut like the proverbial "hot knife through butter". 

4. 
   jako17 | Sep 27, 2005 05:41am | #6

   We have used their shaper cutters for years with great sucess.The only time it has been necessary to tamper with the set up is after sharpening as with most cope and stick.I have more recently gone over to insert tooling to avoid this.That way new matching profiles are cnc generated and fresh inserts installed.Expensive yes, but with man made materials that eat tooling, it can be worth it.

1. 
   ohcomeon | Sep 27, 2005 08:46pm | #7

   Does anyone know who makes the Makita set that comes with the 2612C router?  I got them recently and they seem to do a nice job.  I have only made a set of test cuts but am getting ready to actually put them to use.  I have been curious who makes them since I assume that Makita jobs that out to one of the big bit makers.

5. 
   mudman | Sep 28, 2005 07:12pm | #8

   Same as wood worker 79 said, I had a missmatched set. It took me half a day (not counting  tracking down shims) to fine tune the set. I was pretty upset about it. They cut very good though. BTW I was not able to get the set to match perfect, but it is pretty close.

   Mike

6. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 28, 2005 11:30pm | #12

   Has Rockler bits.. Works OK for me..

   They have Horizontal and Vertical I use Vertical.. Just me..