Replies

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Aug 03, 2003 09:43pm | #1

   wood

      I would unscrew an take the base off for a table mount. that will give you an additional 3/8" to 1/2" (depending how thick your base is) height adjustment. Remember you lost height when you mounted the router to the table-plate.

   Back to the shop... Luck..

   sarge..jt

2. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 03, 2003 11:36pm | #2

   Woodman, if you have a drill press, you can cut the metal opening using a hole saw and arbor of the correct size.

   First, remove the baseplate and put aside.

   Then, up-end and clamp the whole base to the drillpress table.

   Center the holesaw as accurately as possible and with slowest speed and short pulses, cut the metal 'Donut' through, but use a light touch so as not to 'Hang-up' the holesaw.

   You will now have more access for the wrench.

   If you need more length to your cutters, try rabbeting the under side of your drop-in plate to gain 1/8 to 1/4 "additional height .Also ,don't use the original baseplate (to gain more height)

   When the router and base is reattached,you can rout (with another router) out for the wider rabbeted  3 plus inch drop-in discs, by installing a i/4" rod in the lower router's chuck, (As a pilot) and a circle cutting jig attached to the upper router.

   When I did the same type of alteration, I just drilled a 1/4" hole in the upper router's baseplate the right distance away from it's center to accept the pilot below.

   If you rout a circlular groove half way through the plate, and then re drill another 1/4" hole in top baseplate (3/8" closer to center), you can now rout out the whole donut, a small pass at a time.

   On my all wood portable router table, (In one Quadrant) near the 'feed' end, I drew an ever widening helix and drilled and tapped lots of holes to accept a 1/4" short pilot pin.

    A great way to fashion accurate discs/wheels/circular picture frames, and rabbeted drop in plates.  Stein.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/3/2003 4:49:58 PM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   woodtogo | Aug 04, 2003 03:53am | #3

   Stein,

   Thanks, great reply.  Now only one question, do you have one(Freud Router?  And did you do this?  And why didn't I think of this.  If you did do it, do you feel you have weakened your base?   And if you did how long have you been using it this way?  I have made my inserts in the same fasion you do, and thought I was the only one who did it that way......  I am not using a drop in plate, I install the router directly to the table itself. 

   woodman

3. 
   mwestenberg | Aug 04, 2003 04:41am | #4

   Removing the base is not as easy as "unscrewing".  You'll have to deal with roll pins to separate the base from the plunge columns.  If you are equipped to do that, you should have no problems.  I have removed the template guide mounting tabs with no problems and expect that a larger opening could easily be sawn, as the base is just cast aluminum.  Just be aware of the column mounting sockets and don't compromise that attachment point as that is what holds your router square to the table.  I also recommend mounting this router with the two plunge rods on the axis of direction of feed for the table as this will prevent a certain amount of "rocking" motion under heavy load.

   Mark

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Aug 04, 2003 07:23am | #5

   mark

      Is the Freud set up differently on the base than PC, DW, Bosch, etc.? I have never seen one in person. From what you're saying, it sounds like it has a cast metal base without a plastic or phenolic plate that just screws off.

      If that is the case, I'm also assuming that the hole in that base is rather small from what you are advising. Just curious..

   sarge..jt

2. 
   woodtogo | Aug 04, 2003 01:34pm | #6

   Mark,

   I don't think he means taking off the metal base, I think he is refering to the plastic base which screws on with 4 screws, and is approx. 1/8" thick.   I would not attempt to remove the metal base, then how would I mount the posts?????

   woodman

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Aug 04, 2003 06:43pm | #7

   wood

      Thanks for the clarification. Yep, that's exactly what I meant.

      I went over to the Freud web-site an looked at your router. Opps. I didn't realize that the Freud is a plunge. I have a DW (Elu) plunge that has the small opening in the base. I use it just for free-hand plunge. Most of the Euro design plunges have that small opening. I had a Hitachi mounted on my table an had to cut the ears off the inside of the opening to get the 2 + bits through. I just replaced with a Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP fixed base.

      Now I see your delima. If you don't have another router, you may have no choice other than enlarging the base hole. Sorry for the confusion. I should have scanned over an checked the Freud out before I posted...

   Good Luck...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   SgianDubh | Aug 05, 2003 08:20am | #8

   sarge, there is the possibility that the maker considers their router incapable of spinning a bit greater than 2-1/4" diameter safely or effectively, or perhaps both-- so they added a restriction into the manufacturing process. I'm not familiar with that router, but the thought crossed my mind. Slainte.Website

1. 
   charlesm | Aug 05, 2003 03:06pm | #9

   The FT2000E router is certainly capable of safely turning bits up to 3-1/2" diameter in a router table. The hole in the base of the router is sized to deter the freehand use of large bits.

   Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

2. 
   SgianDubh | Aug 07, 2003 11:05am | #17

   Charles- I inspected a Freud 2000 router today. As supplied to the buying public it won't accept a 3.5" diameter bit-- 2- 1/4" is about the maximum. Is the official Freud advice from you that it is okay to knock the base about a bit to allow bigger bits to be fitted, as long as it is used in a table? Where does Freud stand once the base of the router has been hacked out and someone then chooses to use a big bit freehand?

   To spin a bit of that diameter you need to reduce the RPM in a router to about 11,000, or maybe 12,000-- how does that affect horsepower and torque? Wouldn't it be advisable to fit a bit that big into a spindle moulder or shaper, or even better, buy a shaper cutter that would do a similar job in a shaper or spindle moulder?

   And I must add that I always ignore 'claimed' horsepower as printed on the box of a power tool. I prefer to use wattage divided by 746-- a simple calculation if the volts and amps consumed are known-- so the Freud 2000 is a 2.4+ HP router to me, with a bit of a peak here and there, ha, ha. Slainte.Website

3. 
   charlesm | Aug 07, 2003 04:02pm | #19

   The official Freud position is that you should never alter the tool in any way. Large diameter bits are inserted into the collet from above the table. Since there is no need for them to pass through the base there is no need to alter the base. 3-1/2" diameter Freud bits should be run at no more than 12000 RPM and the Freud router has electronic speed regulation that maintains the speed under load (the power and torque increase as the load increases). Larger diameter shaper cutters used on a 3/4" or larger spindle shaper with induction motor is definitely a more efficient setup but is also a considerably larger investment and, therefore, out of reach for many woodworkers and small cabinet shops.

   Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

4. 
   SgianDubh | Aug 08, 2003 04:34am | #23

   That's an intersting response, Charles. With a 3-1/2" bit fitted below the base, that could make for an interesting moment should the operator inadvertantly raise the router motor to its fully raised position, especially if it happens to be running, ha, ha. I don't recall if that model has a raising limiter or not-- I'll take another look at the one I examined next time I see it, but if one is fitted the operator has to remember to set it. The locks on plunge routers can and do fail, or may not be securely locked in the first place.  Slainte.Website

5. 
   charlesm | Aug 08, 2003 03:52pm | #26

   Slainte,

   The router has a micro-adjust knob that serves to limit depth and a lock as well so, barring operator error, these should serve to prevent the router from pulling the bit into the base.

   Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

6. 
   RANGERP75R | Aug 05, 2003 05:56pm | #10

   Sgain

      That makes sense. An Charles answer does to. I would not consider putting a 2 1/2" in an taking a free-hand cruise. Not at this point of life anyway. I have jumped out of 189 airplanes. I don't do that anymore either. ha..ha..

      Pass those malt beverages an snacks, please...

   Regards....

   sarge..jt

7. 
   ELVY | Aug 06, 2003 07:20am | #11

   Perhaps you are incapable of spinning nothing but PC,DW,etc.

8. 
   RANGERP75R | Aug 06, 2003 08:12am | #13

   VERTIS

      Sgain (Richard Jones) has been a professional furniture maker for 30 years. He has been published in quite a few wood magazines also, including the one that sponsors this forum. You might click on his web-site an take a look at some of his work. Would probably give you a better idea if he's capable of spinning anything but PC, DW, etc.

9. 
   ELVY | Aug 08, 2003 03:20am | #20

   Like I said no disrespect,but considering most of the wood magazines out there, it seems that there is little talk/advertisement about the Freud router,and whatever ads are out, its usually small compared to PC,DW,etc,except for thier cutters.Living in the southern Ontario region I can tell you that any HOME DEPOT,or any other megahardware store will all stock that machine as well as the other popular manufactures,but any articles  in FWW that require the use of a router, I have never seen or read any mention of the Freud router by any of the contributers.Maybe Freud cant be botherd with pumping large ads in the USA. Thanks.

10. 
    RANGERP75R | Aug 08, 2003 04:41am | #24

    VERTIS

       You got me on that one... You won't see a General Millenium TS that often either, even though it is excellent. These are all matters that go over my head. I use Freud blades which are pushed highly with advertising, but the router is not.

       I guess there are certain things that will remain a mystery of life. ha..ha..

    Have a good evening...

    sarge..jt 

11. 
    SgianDubh | Aug 07, 2003 10:16am | #16

    Ha, ha, VERTIS. You're far too sharp for me. How do you say "raspberry" in a forum? Slainte.Website

12. 
    ELVY | Aug 08, 2003 04:08am | #22

    Up here in Canada we have the same goods as our American nieghbors,but it seems to me few of yourselves are aware of this product. Too Bad.

13. 
    SgianDubh | Aug 08, 2003 04:45am | #25

    VERTIS, are you counting me as an American too? Sorry mate if you are, ha, ha. All Yanks talk funny and spell oddly to me-- Canuck's talk funny too-- but the spelling is a bit less idiosyncratic.  Sure, I'm aware of the Freud product line, including their larger router under discussion, the 1,900W as it's labelled in some parts of the world. Never owned or used one, but their US labelled F2000(?) the same tool(?) looks capable enough, if a bit unsophisticated.

    I'm more of a Wadkin, Robinson, Startrite, Sedgwick, DeWalt, nee. Elu, Bosch, Metabo, etc., man myself than an American tool user. I had a less than wonderful experience with an underpowered Porter Cable router about ten years ago. It looked a bit like a small  R2D2, without the charm-- never thought of buying one since then, but I'm sure their newer offerings work fine. Slainte. 

    Website

    Edited 8/8/2003 3:18:47 AM ET by Sgian Dubh

4. 
   ELVY | Aug 06, 2003 07:43am | #12

   I also own the same product,I think it's a well designed machine(forget about those PC owners they can only see so far),but you have raised my curiiousity with your question. First I must admit that I have not had the need for a wide cutter,but I have looked at my unit,and if you take Steinmtz's advice(no disrespect) with cutting a larger opening then you will lose template guide mounting screw.So now you have to comprise.Be carefull you dont butcher a fine machine. 

1. 
   woodtogo | Aug 07, 2003 01:08am | #14

   Vertis,

   I have thought of that, but I have no intentions of ever taking the freud out of the table.  So the template guide mounting screws don't mean anything to me.  I just wanted to make sure it did not compromise the strength of the machine.  I am looking to see if anyone else did it.  I can see your concern though.  If I intended to use it as a multi router in and out of the table, I would have reservations about this step.  And if that is Freud's idea of stopping someone from freehanding the large bits, they should think this through again, cause it seems like a lot of guys are opting for the Hatachi for this reason.  I looked at it and it has a large 3 1/2" hole in the base.  I just didn't think it was built as good as the freud, and the freud felt better in my hands, you know what I mean the parts seemed to fit better, and it didn't feel cheap.  Oh well my 2 cents for today.  Thank-You for the info. I really appreate it...

   woodman

1. 
   ELVY | Aug 08, 2003 03:38am | #21

   It just seems like too much fuss unless you are planning to produce a large batch,then you should opt for a large shaper/moulder machine.  Good Luck.

5. 
   Midnight | Aug 07, 2003 04:16am | #15

   Woodman....

   I own two routers of this same model, one permaneltly table mounted, one for freehand work. I have to admit that your idea has me a little confused. I can't see the advantage in having above the table access to the nut when you still need to get under the table to engage the shaft lock, not to mention adjust the cutter height.

   I'm not saying your idea's a bad one, I just can't see how the benefits work. I've used mine in the table to take a max. bit size of 67mm (2 5/8"??) without a prob. Care to enlighten me....??? What am I missing...??

   Mike

   Scotland

1. 
   woodtogo | Aug 07, 2003 02:14pm | #18

   Mike,

   I see your confusion, but I do not go under the table for any reason. 

   1. I have th spindle lock all worked out, I use the hole for the edge guide on which I mounted a bar of alluminum 1/8x3/4x approx 12" or whatever works for you.  then use it as a lever to lock the spindle, and a simple catch holds it in the locked position, while I hold the bit where I want it and tighen the nut.  When the nut is tighened, I just reach the catch and click the spindle lock retracts and ready to make molding.

   2. Thanks to a post on Mad marks forum I found a woodworker who has made a simple router raiser using a 3/8" all thread rod.  Works great.  Never go under the table.  Never.  Change a bit in 5 seconds.  And even If I had to reach under the table, thanks to Freud you can reach under and make any adustment with the fine tuning knob.  Not bad when I may change bits 4 or 5 times to make a complex molding.   Not to mention no bending or fiddling under the table.  Its like sliced bread to me......

   woodman