After doing some research, I’m now uncertain…
I received two Freud Diablo blades for my BT 3100 — the 50-tooth Combination and the 80-tooth fine finish crosscut — instead of The Lump of Coal — as an early present View Image
After looking over the Freud web site, I find the thin kerf Diablo blades are “Contractor” Series (they have the “D****X” code) but I can’t tell what the Carbide is (C4?).
I went and looked at the Freud blades on the rack at a local Sears and got really thrown by the packaging — some of the “TK” blades are in a package that clearly states “C4 carbide” right next to large type that reads “Contractor”. Even a couple of “LU” blades have “Contractor” on the packaging. (My impression from the Freud site is that the TK and the LU series are “Woodworking” blades.)
I sure hope you Guys Who Know can do the improbable and unconfuse me (and others as well?) and point me to the more suitable series of blades for use on the BT saw.
(BTW, I realize that the Dewalt “Contractor” Series 20 blades are the “throw away cheapies” for those who run over nails and other fun stuff — are Freud “D Series” the same?)
Thanks View Image
Steve
Replies
Putzger,
Charles Freud comes on here frequently and, as you might guess, knows the answers you seek. You might want to do a search in here also, lots of good info has already been shared. Merry Christmas
Steve,
It has a lot to do with marketing. The Diablo blades are our newest line and are specifically marketed to contractors and DIYers. The TK blades have been cross marketed between the contractors and woodworkers for many years and are now being transitioned to the woodworker market (we use special packaging for Sears because their market is so broad). The Industrial line is for cabinet shops and professionals. Unlike DeWalt, which I understand produces blades in different factories to different quality levels, all Freud blades come off the same manufacturing line and use the same materials. We use application specific grades of carbide in the blades.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Thank you, Charles!
I appreciate your reply.
Ah yes, the wonders of the modern marketing MBA :-) Your added note re: Sears was welcome clarification.
The Diablo blades certainly do pass the "Chime Test" when hanged on a pen (through the arbor hole) and tapped with a light object. A cheap blade will ring like a cymbal; the Diablo gives a deadened "Thunk" on the body with only a slight muted "ring" when tapped near the rim.
I often cut a lot of 1x MDF boards and machine my own interior paint-grade trim work -- is there a particular Freud blade I should look to use (for long blade life) for this "stuff"? (The original cheap OEM blade on my Delta 36-075 CMS sure didn't last long!)
Steve
http://www.apachetrail.com/house
if youre cutting MDF, find a Triple Chip Grind Tooth pattern. They usually saw its designed for Melamine and man made materials.
Bill is correct that a triple chip grind blade is the best choice for long life. Most melamine and laminate blades will work fine but they generally have low hook angles and which results in slower feed. A 10° hook or better will give great results in bare MDF and will be easier to feed. The best Freud blade for this application is the LU98 series. There is also the TK806L TK series melamine blade that will give long life.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Charles
I am look for a recommendation for a blade for my Makita LS1013 that will give me ultra smooth cut off in crown and other molding with some use for cross cuts on 3/4" hardwood. I normally use full kerf there fore 1/8" blades in all my saws.
TIA
Scott T.
Scott,
The very best crosscut blade we offer is the LU85. However, it has a positive hook angle and is not really recommended for sliding saws. In fact, most of the blades available for 10" sliders are 60 teeth at best. The reason for this is that when you bevel cut you effectively increase the thickness of stock and, therefore, would want less teeth. If you truly want the best moulding cuts I recommend the HiATB F810 which has a mild hook angle and 80 teeth. If you want a more well rounded blade that will give finish cuts in a variety of materials and applications you should get the LU91 series (60 teeth).
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Charles
Thanks for the recommendation, I think I may get both the F810 for molding and the LU91 for crossing of hardwood.
Scott T.
Scott,
I don't want to see you spend more than you need so IMO I think you should try the LU91 first and see if the cuts are up to your standards. If you need a finer cut you can always get the F810 to complement.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Charles
Thank you again, I will follow yor advice it has alway been excellent in the past. In fact I used your advice for making rails for the last couple of doors that I have made and find it much easier to cut the copes with your method.
Scott T.
I wish I could take the credit for the door making method. Whoever came up with it deserves applause.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
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