Thought I would post a few notes about a chair I just finished as a departure from the desk secretary I am building slowly and the 2 rifles I am well over schedule on at this time. It’s a George Nakashima chair that I have wondered about for many years and hesitated to make as an imitation piece. Well I finally got to sit in a real McKoy and it just was not what I liked. The angles needed a little “tweeking” here and there to get me to say “Ah, that’s just right” for me.<!—-> <!—->
If you can cut a bridle joint, you can make this chair to fit you pretty darn easily. I went out and grabbed some scraps and glued them together to make the vertical pieces that support the back. Instead of cutting slots in the vertical pieces, I C-clamped pieces in place to support the seat so I could adjust the height of the seat and the tilt in relation to the angled vertical members. No big deal. Got it. <!—-><!—->
Last experiment is to establish how long you make the horizontal pieces that sit on the floor(they should support a 200lb man sitting on a 20” deep seat). Another bridle joint deal and you have the mouse trap set. Bang. <!—-> <!—->
The top part of the chair is a piece of cake.<!—-> <!—->
The seat. I am accustomed to carving out white pine seats with little resistance. Carving hardwood is another story. I turned to the angle grinder and the Lancelot cutter. Sorry Roy it was noisy and the dust was everywhere. Folks you should not freehand that tool. Its dangerous. Strap that monster in a fixed position and move the seat back and forth to get the shape. Make small adjustments and it cuts like butter. To ease the back and forth stuff, I pulled out some funky drawer slides and made a bed to fix the walnut seat on. Under the cutter, I just “eye-balled” the seat cavity and touched it up with my shaves. About an hour.<!—-><!—->
So. What’s the point? This is an easy chair to make and my son and neighbor said they liked it more than my windsors. That went over like a fart in an elevator. <!—-> <!—->
If you have a chair request, this might be a suggestion to try. After making all of the adjustments, I think I can make this chair in less than 15 hours without getting crazy. Who knows? Maybe you can make it faster… I’m no Frank Klauz.
photo: proto of chair<!—-><!—->
later<!—-><!—->
Edited 5/19/2009 9:48 pm ET by danmart
Edited 5/20/2009 9:24 am ET by danmart
Replies
Great chair. Put a smile on my face as soon as the file was opened. If anywhere, the weak point may be in the leg to feat joint at the bottom--just picturing people rocking back when you're not looking. But bridle joints are plenty strong, so it might be fine.
Thanks for the idea of clamping the Lancelot in place. I recently roughed out my first seat with it free hand. Went okay, but was worried about it running to the left and ruining the high parts. I had to be overly cautious with it and not do too much which meant more handwork to finish up. I used a LN convex palm plane and convex scraper, what did you use? The freehand Lancelot cutting does get a little nervous, especially since I don't have one of those paddle switches on my grinder, so am glad to have another option. What did you use to secure the tool?
Brian
Brian & Dan,Not to hi-jack the thread, but the Arbortech wheel has almost no tendency to grab and run away. I can be very aggressive with it and maintain control. I have yet to try a Lancelot, though I intend to, mainly for my own educational purposes.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com and now http://www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
If anywhere, the weak point may be in the leg to feat joint at the bottom--just picturing people rocking back when you're not looking.
Its pretty tough to rock on this type chair.
What did you use to secure the tool?
I fix the entire angle grinder to a fixed point. I took a couple of large airvent straps(metal with screw) and secured it in place. The seat is then moved back and forth.
Brian
weak point
I was in the Nakashima shop on Saturday for about three hours visiting. A current worker, Justin, was in the finishing room sanding a conoid chair. He did indeed said that joint does fail on occasion. Went back to the building to get a picture of Justin at work, he must have been taking a break.
Ahhhhh, the infamous Conoid Chair. I've often thought about these chairs, looks like they would be a lot of fun/challenge.
Can you use an inshave for shaping the seat? And is it/will it be cantilevered?
Please show pics when you're ready. Would also be nice to see some of the construction process if you're so inclined.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I don't spend the time with an inshave on walnut. In my case the seat was two joined pieces 1 7/8" thick. the saddle is about a 3/4" at the deepest point.
I guess you could use an inshave if you were up to the task.
Measurements and process? Not on this one.
A while back I got in a debate on the reproduction of the Conoid chair and the conflict that comes up when you use the design of another builder. I countered by offering the case of other builders making Maloof rockers and opened up a bucket of worms. In the end, I figured if I made a chair or two for myself from pictures, I wouldn't be bothering the Nakashima business flow. So no Bob I am going to avoid being known as the guy with the Conoid plans. Sorry.
dan
dan,
Didn't mean to stir anything up and in my zeal perhaps should have worded my response differently. The picture looks a lot like one to me is where I'm coming from. Tis all.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Height of George's Chair
Anyone know the height of George's Chair (floor to top of back straight up)?
Dimensions from this site do not match my scale from a photo. Other dimensions look about right.
Thanks
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