Replies

1. 
   jeffreysherow | Dec 12, 2003 04:08am | #1

   I've had good luck with water-based polyurethane on at least two pieces that seem to be doing rather well and on a hardwood floor that also seems to be doing well; however, on the floor, it is definately not lasting as well as the old oil-based poly did.  The oil-based poly, as you probably know, did/will yellow.

   It comes in satin, or gloss and goes on fairly easy.

2. 
   scooter1 | Dec 12, 2003 04:25am | #2

   Poly would be my first choice. Tough, water resistant. Easy to apply Hard to repair however.

   Several coats of tung oil varnish and a wax topping would be my second choice. Not as water resistant nor as tough, but easy to apply, repair and maintain.

   Lacquer (sprayed) would be my third choice. Difficult to apply and fairly tough.

   Shellac wold be my fourth choice. Easy to apply. Very very water resistant. Ridiculously easy to repair, but don't spill vodka on it.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   Tao | Dec 12, 2003 05:48am | #3

   Depends on your skill and equipment level.

   Waterborne acrylic/urethane lacquer doesn't yellow and has good abrasion resistance, but its chemical resistance is generally not high.  The good thing is, a lot of them go on really well with those square painting pads or even a foam brush.

   If you can spray, a CAB lacquer is more durable than nitrocellulose and doesn't yellow.

   Shellac has a natural amber color depending on its grade, but doesn't seem to change with age.  I'm currently working on a 140 year old piano whose finish, except for some really bad water damage, is as good as new.  Water resistance is surprisingly good, but alcohol resistance is nil.

   Michael R

1. 
   Ardmore | Dec 12, 2003 06:13am | #4

   I have done some spraying but I'm not familiar with the CAB lacquer.  Please explain.

   ardmore 

1. 
   Tao | Dec 12, 2003 05:40pm | #5

   CAB stands for cellulose acetate butyrate.  A lot of CAB lacquers also have acrylic resins added and are called CAB-acrylic.  They spray and look like conventional lacquer, but the resins don't yellow appreciably.  They're good over pickled finishes & such.  Durability is quite a bit better than nitrocellulose, and meets KCMA standards.  Use a water white vinyl sealer underneath, not a nitro sealer.

   ML Campbell makes a good one, and I'm sure S-W does, too.  Pretty common product.

   Michael R.

1. 
   Ardmore | Dec 12, 2003 07:20pm | #6

   Michael R.

   Thanks for the information.  I may try that and see how I like it.

   ardmore

1. 
   JBD | Dec 14, 2003 09:50am | #7

   Good directing Michael R.  If you are pro, then I would highly suggest Conversion Varnish.  Its a post catylized polyurethane (I think) and is very commonly used due to its toughness.  I've used SW water-white conversion varnish for years, and had no appreciable yellowing, and its higher solids than CAB acrylic laquers - two coats and it looks great.

2. 
   Tao | Dec 14, 2003 10:10pm | #8

   Conversion finishes can be based on a number of resin systems.  S-W's chemical coatings guide doesn't say what's in their WW conversion varnish.  The ones I am most familiar with are MLC's Kristal, which is an amino-alkyd system, DuraVar, which is a nitrocellulose / amino-alkyd system, and catalyzed urethane or acrylic-urethane.  I use ICA's catalyzed urethane.  They all give very good performance (duraVar does yellow because of the NC)  I didn't recommend them because they really shouldn't be used in a home environment, and mixing catalyst is just one more thing to go wrong, with no particular advantage in this case.  Plus, they are tough to repair or touch up.

   The quote from Ruhlmann is interesting.  Not too many people are aware of him over here.  I was introduced to his work by a client, and am working on adaptations of some of his and Frank's work.   Who knows when any of it will get done, but it's interesting.

   I've worked on a little French Deco furniture, and from what I have seen they seem to have sacrificed practicality for esthetics.  Sort of like breeding thoroughbreds for looks instead of speed.  The interesting part is trying to take some of those designs and make them work in the real world.

   Michael R

3. 
   JBD | Dec 14, 2003 11:23pm | #9

   Ditto on the sacrificed practicality Mike.   French Deco furniture is a little too dainty for me, but some pcs are awesome.  Especially in the combination of Macassar ebony and aluminum or SS. 

   Thanks for the info on the ingredients of a typical conversion varnish, "varnish" kindof implies a potpourri of resins.  You're right about the health and mixing issues.  However, I was in the small shop boat for years before friends at a neighboring cabinetshop turned me on to CV, and I was more than ready, and never turned back to laquer.  Of course I was pro then, and this forum might be a little different.

   See my deco furniture on the "about us" page of http://www.johnblazydesigns.com

4. 
   Tao | Dec 15, 2003 04:53am | #10

   Interesting.......... I kind of thought you might be a gemologist, because I have only seen the word "dichroic" applied to gemstones.

   Your designs look great -- It's gotta take a lot of restraint to not go way overboard with those materials, but you handle them well.  It's such a short step from "cool" to "kitsch".

   Michael R