*
I’m trying to restore a neglected oak sideboard. It’s not a valuable antique, but I’d like to make a reasonable job. It’s been sitting indoors at my place for a month now, and has dried enough to get the drawers moving freely. I’d like to get started, but I’ve a few questions even at this stage.
First problem is the top. This is around 20″ wide and 60″ long, made from several pieces of quarter-sawn oak jointed with a small tongue and groove. The finish is completely off much of the surface. The top has cupped, convex side up, and has split along one of the joints. It’s held by steel screws all around the perimeter, through the frame and into the top from underneath – with no allowance for expansion or contraction. I have the top detached, and I’m wondering whether there’s any way to get the boards flat again other than planing the cup out of them.
Should I strip the remains of the finish off the boards first? I believe the existing finish is shellac, as it gets sticky when rubbed with alcohol, but just rubbing with fingers sends little flakes flying.
How about fixing the top back on? I was thinking either brass screws through slots, or buttons sliding into existing slots in the framework.
Another problem is the joinery. The top back rail/style joints are pushed open (possibly by expansion of the top). I’m hoping this is scotch glue. What would be the best method of repairing this?
Thanks in advance, and sorry for such a long message. Obviously you can’t see the piece, so I’m really just hoping for a few opinions and ideas,
Tony Smith
Replies
*
A few general rules we follow in our shop: Do all repairs if possible before tackling the finish. Clean old glue off completely before regluing. Put hardware back on in exactly the same location you removed it from. Use hide glue (hot hide or Franklin's Liquid Hide) for regluing. Remove finish using the least aggressive means possible (rub down with alcohol instead of using paste stripper). Try non-chemical means of finish removal if possible (I've stripped entire large chests of crazed, flaky finish with small plexiglass and soft metal scrapers.
We also hardly ever sand bare wood once the finish is off, especially if we're working on a period piece. We're aiming for an appearance of well-kept character, not the shiny showroom, just been through the car wash look. Hard to beat dewaxed shellac for an all around great finish unless you plan to spill Jim Beam or Johnnie Walker Red all over the work.
*The top got my attention. If it is quarter sawn it shouldn't be cupping. Is there a finish on one side of the top. If it's drier on one side than the other it could warp. When wood bends it will bend toward the dry side. If you lay a thin board across a hot pipe it will try to wrap around the pipe. I have heard that laying the board down on the grass on a sunny day will help straighten warped boards. You just have to figure out how it warped. Good luck.
*"If it is quarter sawn it shouldn't be cupping" Right. Originally it looks like it was shellac on top, nothing on the underneath and I reckon it's gone through a few damp/dry cycles. Maybe it dried unevenly at some time.Much of the top has lost all its finish and I think I have to completely remove the remains. I now have the top off and I'll see if it shows any signs of flattening out after both surfaces are cleaned.
*Tony; If you can use a digital camera,it would be easy for you to post a picture of the piece. Cupping is reversable but it takes time. try laying concave side down on a concrete floor for a few days or weeks being careful not to damage it. Avoid brass screws in oak as they might break.
*Thanks for suggestions. I was thinking of brass screws to avoid corrosion and staining from iron fasteners. The original steel screws were badly rusted. Would you use steel screws in oak?Tony S
*I've used zinc coated screws and never had a problem. My reason for disliking brass is that a brass screw can break off so easily. All i'm saying is to be real careful if you use them
*Hey Folks,I've had several "family" pieces in storage for many years that need attention before being put into service. I have many opportunities for personal woodworking "growth", from chairs that need complete disassembly and regluing to dresser drawer problems.Could anyone recommend a publication(s) that covers many of these restoration problems and modern ways to deal with them? Thanks for your help! I just stumbled on this website tonight and it looks FANTASTIC.
*Henry, I recently subscribed to a magazine called Professional Refinishing, and recieved my first issue last week. Seems to have a lot of info in it, mainly aimed at professionals, but serious amateurs would also gain from it. This issue leans slightly more to refinishing than structural work. (Good article on repairing rocking chair rockers.) It's edited by Bob Flexner. If you're interested, web site is http://www.prorefinishing.com. GP
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled