Replies

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Feb 12, 2001 06:53pm | #1

   *
   Ernest,

   FWIW, I would stick to the T&G and mortise & tenon joinery. The wood will soak up the water and swell and, IMO, give you stronger joints. In traditional carvel construction on boat hulls the planks were butted edge to edge with a slight chamfer on the adjoining plank edge, below the water line, for caulk. I have seen pre-milled boat planking that is tongue and grooved. Good choice on the Port Orford.

   Dano

1. 
   Madison's_dad | Feb 18, 2001 02:33am | #2

   *Try coopering, as in barrel construction - avoids corner joints, and self-sealing. Might experiment with using a through bolt just under the front edge of the seat to form into an oval shape, so as to give more leg room and cut down on total volume. All that requires is an oval bottom, rabbeted into the staves, constrained by the outside hoop.

1. 
   Tom_Witt | Mar 04, 2001 05:48pm | #3

   *Hi Everyone,I've been thinking about making an ofuro for a while now and have not found plans but did find the site posted below that sells them. Have'nt gotten up the nerve to ask them if a woodworker could buy some plans or if they have books they could recommend about the subject. Seems like it might be rude to ask a business something like that.But what the heck they can always say no.The whole issue of the wood swelling and self-sealing is certainly boat builder territory. Might be worthwhile going to the Wooden Boat website and checking around there for ideas and comments. http://www.woodenboat.com good thread!Tom Witt -Iron Dog Designhttp://insiderweb.com/ofuro_soon.htm

1. 
   Ernie_Omori | Apr 10, 2001 05:16pm | #4

   *Well I just water tested the furo and it has some small drips. All and all it's ok. I used sliding dovetails except for the last two panels which I use T&G so I could slide that edge into the last piece. I used a polyurethane glue and I hope it last.