I’m busy making the bench on the cover of the “Tools & Shops” issue- and I realized something last night as I was about to cut the mortises for the (double)wedged tenons. The article doesn’t mention cutting the sides of the mortise at an angle for the wedged tennon to spread into- which is what I’ve always done… but never on this scale before.
So to cut the angles in the mortise or not? Is it just simply a big enough joint that it doesn’t need it- because wowzer this is going to have a LOT of glue area. Um, what else? Oh, I’m using White Ash for the base and will probably use yellow glue.
Thanks for any ideas you all might have!
Replies
I cut my mortise straight and drill a small hole (on the tenon) at the end of the bandsaw kerf where the wedges will be inserted to make sure I don't split the tenon stock. I don't see why cutting your mortise at an angle wouldn't work. You may need a slightly thicker wedge than the first application though.
Good luck!
Eric
Ah, good point. Additionally I'm worried about the strength of the wedged joint and where the "locking" force of the separated (wedged) tenon is applied to the walls of the mortise. In the really bad drawing below I tied to work it out. Though I might be paying too much importance to the "locking" force.
In the example to the left is the straight mortise... will the force only be on the outside of the mortise (FWW plan... as far as I can tell).
In the example to the right with the angled mortise- will the force be more evenly distributed?
I know it is just a workbench et all, but I find myself wanting to find an answer with out the background to do so!
Chipper
I don't think he angled the mortices. IMO, the glue surface is enough. The way he did it, the wedge just tightens the outer portion of the tenon inside the mortice. If you're working with a skinny legged base, I would definitely angle. On a M&T this size in legs that large, I find it unnecessary.
I just pinned my M&T's on my new bench. But it is built in a design that all components re-inforce all other components. I have built in this manner over about 20 years when I adapted it and no M&T has failed yet. One could, but I have my doubts and track record so far to put that thought aside.
I had 6 teen-age boys attempt to make it move even slightly. It doesn't and probably won't, even if a glue joint were to fail. It's a "one for all and all for one" design when it comes to the joints and structure.
Regards...
sarge..jt
Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
>> ... it is built in a design that all components re-inforce all other components.
Well dang. I thought the pictures were going to be the details of your super duper joint design. I can go anywhere and see pretty pictures of benches. :)
U D
I posted the wrong ones. I got so many on file and not adequately labeled I don't have a clue what is what any more.
Just the price of cheap labor. ha..ha...
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Actually seeing your bench pics a while ago is what finally got me going on my own! But I just have to ask- what kind of glue did you use? Those are some massive joints! Just a yellow glue?
Thanks- for both the inspiration and help!
Chipper
I used Tite-bond Extend. I work alone and the extra 5 or 6 minutes it gives me is appreciated. Even with prior planning and near perfect joints, that big a structure is difficult to assemble by yourself. When you go to assemble try to get someone to help and rehearse before the glue is applied.
Tite-bond has a tendency to creep, but the design I use really is an inter-locking structure. That's why I made the comment that it could sruvive without glue if necessary. With the size of bench and joints you're tackling, I think you will be fine with yellow glue.
BTW, the Extend really shines when you're doing the top. I glued up in just under 6" sections. Ran those across the surface jointer ( I have a 6") and then glued the sections one at a time to another section. Gave plenty of time to get everything set up square in those "jorgy cabinet-masters". That boiled down to little hand-planing when all the sections were combined.
Good Luck...
sarge..jt Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Gents a view of the joint in question......I kept everything square bar the wedge slots....cheers Iain
Phew!
Thanks for the post! That Pic is starting to look more and more familiar every day! Did you put an inlay around the mortise?
No but I guess you could, I did a 30ish degree chamfer.....take care Iain
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