I know there have been myriad posts on filling gaps using X, Y or Z but…
I’m building the N. Bennett Street School Gentleman’s Toolbox as a pandemic project.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/shop-projects/history-north-bennet-street-toolbox
I got to the dado step: https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/shop-projects/ep-9b-web-frame-dados. And my dados are not as tight as I am used to. Maybe .003-.005 gap total.
I typically build of walnut so am used to dealing with darker woods but the beech is lighter than I am used to. My intent is to use a light finish like poly over super blonde shellac.
Was wondering if anyone has any opinions regarding either PVA glue or hide glue in this situation? I tend do default to Old Brown Glue for my walnut issues because, well… its brown and it takes finish pretty well but I am pretty much a novice on lighter woods…
Your opinions are welcomed….
Replies
Were it mine, I would either accept it (the box is ridiculously strong as designed) or would glue a shim on to the divider then plane down to a nice snug fit, and stick with the glue you are used to.
Sounds like you are a better woodworker than me anyway, but that's my 2c...
Old brown glue. It's the most forgiving after the finish goes on. If you have toomuch PVA glue showing, finish will just highlight the oops.
You mentioned gap-filling in the title, but not in the post. Is that the real issue?
Tinted epoxy is a choice.
Do you do the dados first, then mill the divider to fit?
Well, yes I consider a gap of .005 too wide. Maybe it is the toolmaker/machinist in me. I guess "gap" is subject to some interpretation.
There is little chance that I could cut a shim to fit, but the band saw is an awesome tool for this so i imagine given enough incentive I could.
Yes, I did the dadoes first but they are hand-cut and I had transferred the dividers but hindsight sez that dadoes first then milling the dividers would have been smarter ;(
Not worried about the strength of the box because as some said, it is plenty strong, but the anal retentiveness in me is a bit bothered by the gap.....
maybe it is much ado about nothing...
I'll cut the dovetails and use hide glue. I'll post a pic after all is complete (next weekend) and hope the gaps are acceptable.
I've used epoxy in some projects but tinting this to match the natural finish of the beech seems difficult.
"Well, yes I consider a gap of .005 too wide. Maybe it is the toolmaker/machinist in me. I guess "gap" is subject to some interpretation."
First, I would say that a "gap" of .005, which is 1/200th of an inch, is more of an annoyance than a gap.
Titebond dark wood glue. http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/0d8d5e20-0660-45f6-a61e-69ada5b855b0
.005" is so small that when you add a water-based glue, it is likely that it swell the wood enough to create a nice fit.
The next thing to try is gluing a plane shaving onto the wood. I could get a .005" shaving from maple or poplar without much fuss. And it is so thin, you won't need to clamp it.
You could also glue a strip of veneer onto the wood, and then sand it down to get a snug fit. Commercial veneer is about .024" thick.
I've known many machinists that take up woodworking and don't enjoy it because wood is such an ornery medium to work with. In engineering terms, it is a nonhomogeneous, anisotropic material that is filled with internal stress. The machinists that do enjoy woodworking enjoy adaptation.
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