My workshop is in a detached garage with a concrete slab floor. I would like to install an engineered floating wood floor directly over the slab. I would prefer it to be unfinished. Does anyone have a recommendation on a particular product or type of product and where to get it?
Thanks.
Alan
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Replies
Alan;
There was an article in issue #174 called Shop Flooring solutions, here is a link to it if your an online member, not sure if this will be of any help.
Mike
Might I ask why you prefer unfinished? Just curious.....
Forestgirl,
I don't want the prefinished (for residential use) type flooring. I would like to have a simple oil finish that won't be marked up nearly as much by rolling or sliding machines or other stuff on it, and that can be easily refinished as needed.Thanks.
Alan
Makes sense, as I said I was just curious. Good timing on the FWW article. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
forestgirl,
Right off the top of my bean is it isn't slippery and it's cheaper than finished. As an aside, it wil undoubtedly take some amount of beating over time and I suspect the finish will too.
NOFMA recommends using engineered flooring over cement slabs or below grade where moisture can be an issue.
Hmmmmmmmmm, it seems that NOFMA is now NWFA and now charges a membership fee! NOFMA used to be free.........
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
The current issue of Fine Homebuilding has a cover story about how to do exactly that.
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007
John,
Thanks. I'll look there. What I was thinking of is something like the prefabricated wood tiles mentioned on page 46 of the current Tools & Shops issue in the description of Anatole Burkin's shop. Can you give me any information on specifically what he used?Thanks for your help.
Alan
Alan,
It looks like Anatole is using the DriCore subfloor panels.
http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspxThey are a OSB style subfloor panels rather than a a true hardwood over plywood engineered floor, so your idea of oiling is out, but a few healthy coats of a good floor and porch paint will certainly brighten up the shop.
My big concern is what happens surface once the surface becomes abraded from rolling machinery around. On the plus, if you damage one panel, it should be easy to replace.I have been looking at these and would really like to hear Anatole's opinion now that he has had them installed. Don
If you have the space the ideal way to go would be to put a 2x4 floor joist system with a 3/4 cdx plywood deck. That way you could bury your electrical and dust collection in the frame and have it come out in dedicated locations for your machines. I think I saw this in one of J.tolpin's books.O.
A month or two ago, Fine Homebuilding had a great article on how to add engineered flooring to a slab.
Basically, there was a layer of vapor retarder, then two layers of plywood. The first layer was simply laid without fasteners. The second layer was fastened to the first, with the seams of the ply being offset. In this way, the "subfloor" became a single floating unit.
Above those layers, the flooring was attached using the manufacturer's instructions (I think).
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
Alan,
There is another product - Delta-FL that is a polyethylene barrier similar to the Dricore, but you only get the poly barrier. You lay it out first then apply your preferred sheeting. The advantage is the sheeting can be any thickness not just the 5/8 that DriCore provides and at a considerable saving if you use an OSB type material.
Don
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