I’ve just completed an English garden bench out of western red cedar, and would like to put a finish on it. The plans recommend a mix of spar varnish and tung oil, the tung oil for its look and the spar varnish to protect the bench outdoors. Is this a good way to go? I don’t want a high-gloss finish, so I’m hoping the tung oil, along with some mineral spirits to thin it down, will cut the gloss of the varnish down. Will it?
Norman
Replies
Is this garden bench actually going to be used in the garden? If so, the elements (sun, wind, rain) will take their toll.
Additional thinner will have no effect on the gloss qualities of the finish.
I don't think there is any usefulness for tung oil in the equation. It will add nothing to the look of the wood and offers absolutely no protection. Spar varnish is the tried and true finish for those of us who have maintained the "bright work" (wood) on boats. Forget anything but actual Marine Spar Varnish from a real marine supply house. It's expensive, but is the only varnish with enough UV protection to do the job. Spar varnish needs periodic "maintenence," (sanding, repainting), once every 6 months to once every 2 years, depending on your conditions.
Why not consider the traditional practice of letting the red cedar weather to the silver patina it will inevitably achieve with no finish at all?
Or, you could use one of the tough, pigmented oil/stain/paints designed for houses. They hold up very well. The Behr brand comes to mind.
Rich
Edited 5/9/2007 3:23 pm ET by Rich14
Rich, yes, the bench will sit at the edge of the woods in the backyard. Just to be clear, it's a bench for sitting, not a potting bench.According to the plans, the reason for mixing the tung oil with the spar varnish is to reduce the high gloss of the varnish: "Tung oil offers a more natural-looking finish. It penetrates the wood to offer a deepr protection. But it takes a long time to set up and doesn't wear as well as the spar varnish."I did buy some Epifane spar varnish at a marine store today, and you're right, it wasn't cheap!Thanks,
Norman
Just another point about the Epifanes. Read the directions carefully, follow them to the letter. Exactly. If you want dull, rub it down after you have put on the necessary 6 or 7 coats. Lots of boaters think Epifanes is the best there is, but it depends on having all the coats, and on doing the annual maintenance. Also, it is important to touch up any dings as soon as you notice it.
But, still better go for grey.
Norman,I don't know where you're getting the "advice" about use of tung oil in this application, but it's simply wrong. Tung oil is of no benefit at all here and the business about its penetrating properties providing some advantage or its altering the appearance of varnish is fantasy.Any finish to be used exposed to the elements has to be industrial strength. No one has more experience with that kind of thing than marine varnish manufacturers and boat owners.For your bench, either go the full marine spar route (many coats, frequent maintenance) or leave the wood bare.Rich
Either let it weather naturally or use the exterior paint base finish.Gretchen
Thanks for all your great advice. Here's my quandary. This garden bench, pictured below, is my first real woodworking project, and I'm sentimental about it. I know the wood is probably no big deal, but after all that smoothing, etc., I'm incredibly reluctant to just put it outdoors unfinished. I've grown to love a lot of the grain in this wood, especially in the arms, and I'd like to draw that grain out as much as I can. If mixing tung oil with the spar varnish is won't help to do that, then I guess I'll use spar varnish only. Treating it every year is no big deal to me. Will the wood still darken with age?Norman
Norman,That's a good looking bench and you should be proud of it. Boiled Linseed Oil Will bring out the grain. You can (temporarily) get a good idea of the effect by wetting the wood with mineral spirits. After the linseed oil treatment, start the spar varnish process.Rich
We spent a lot of time with the spar varnish aspect of outdoor finishing. However, we didn't pick up the other outdoor wood problem which is not enough sun--I believe you said it was to go at the edge of the woods. If it gets a lot of shade it can also have mold/mildew problems. If that could be the case--and it varies case to case depending on its orientation and your climate, you don't want to use linseed oil, since mold actually seems to feed on linseed oil. (I believe I read that on a Forest Product Labs publication, and they will know.)
Thinning a first coat of spar varnish, as the manufacturer's directions call for, will pop the grain virtually as much as the linseed oil but be a better mildew inhibitor, particularly if there is any delay between the first coat and subsequent coats. On cedar it will all be soaked up so application is very forgiving.
Wetting the bench down with mineral oil does have the benefit of revealing any glue that strayed to the surface.
Thanks, Rich, for the kind words. I'm more fond of this bench than I probably should be, but it's my first baby. . . Steve, I'm in New England, as you are, and the bench will be in a partly shaded spot where it could easily pick up mildew. I read a post of yours on another forum where you did not recommend Epifane's for outdoor furniture. Well, that's the spar varnish I have. Why don't you think it's best for this use?Norman
The only problem with spar varnish for outdoor furniture is that it is a bit on the soft side. I wouldn't use it for decks for sure, but I don't remember saying not to use it on furniture, but sometimes I don't have enough coffee before posting. Epifanes is probably the best of the marine spar varnishes--it's what I am using on my boats bright work.
I should also point out that the two teak benches I made for my patio have no finish on them and are completely grey. I just wash them down with a brush every so often, mostly because we have bird feeders. I am also having a house built that will have white cedar shingles on the walls that will not be finished. (They will come pre-treated with bleaching oil, however.)
I defer to Steve regarding the linseed oil/shade/mildew problem. Don't use Linseed Oil in those conditions.
Is the "no finish" solution beginning to have more appeal?
Rich
Rich, I'm considering no finish, but I just can't quite bring myself to leave my baby unprotected out there in the big bad world. Maybe I'll tackle a couple of Adirondack chairs and leave them unfinished . . . Thanks again,
Norman
Wouldn't the bench look good inside your entry hall, or in the family room? How about using it at the foot of the bed to sit on while you tie your shoes?
Interesting idea, Steve. I hadn't considered it. My house may be too small. I'm building a wall of bookcases, and it would work beside that, as a place to sit down with a book for a few minutes, but, alas, there isn't room there.
It doesn't have to be "beside"--it could be in front, to one side. An inviting "nook". Put a plant or something on one end. A yawning bookcase is not always as attractive as one thinks.Gretchen
I would like to piggyback on Norman's question. How would it work on a cedar or redwood garden bench to use something like Thompson's Waterseal to protect it from the rain but let it weather to its normal gray patina?
GeorgeYou don't stop laughing because you grow old. You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->
<!----><!---->
George,Thompson's water seal breaks down very quickly and offers very little of the protection that their ubiquitous ads promise. I don't know if their claims amount to false advertising, but it's not worth the expense or effort to use it for something like this. Penofin has a much better track record. Aside from it (3rd choice), no finish (2nd choice) or the full marine varnish route are about the most effective choices.Rich
Thanks, RichYou don't stop laughing because you grow old. You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->
<!----><!---->
IMO, Thompsons is too much marketing and too little substance. It's been a poor product by my measuring stick.
Take a look a Cabot. That stuff is solid.
The Waterlox formulations are MADE from tung oil.
Rich is right on. By far the best is to let it weather to a mellow dark grey, which is where red cedar usually goes. You might start it along with Cabot's Bleaching Oil.
I say that as I am in the process of annual maintenance on teak brightwork on my boat. It has to be done every year, where I am in New England. South of Virginia I think it's got to be done twice a year.
He is right about using good Marine Spar Varnish. There are three well tested varieties--the rest generally fall far behind. The recommended ones are Epifanes High Gloss, Pettit Captain's, and Interlux Schooner. A quart will set you back $24--$26 plus shipping at http://www.defender.com. At West Marine stores think more about $35 a quart.
Norman, with much success I have used Waterlox Marine, then once it's fairly cured (a cuppla weeks), rub it back with steel wood to cut the gloss.
I'd just use a common house siding stain in any color (colour?) you choose.. Cabot is the bestest! I have western cedar on my house.. 40? years? About that.. As long as it's not in ground contact.. Lasy forever I would guess.. If ground contact, I get some copper flashing and 'cap' the bottom of the legs.. Take some soldering skills but not rocket science!
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled