Replies

1. 
   mikaol | Feb 19, 2022 09:09pm | #1

   Deft makes a water-based lacquer. All the advantages of lacquer without the smell.
   I noticed you're thinking about General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. It's a great finish but I use it only on ebony & Angelim Pedra.
   Mikaol

2. 
   gulfstar | Feb 19, 2022 09:53pm | #2

   Arm-R-Seal is advertised as a wipe on finish, to be applied with a rag or a foam brush. It’s a very diluted varnish. If you are to use a brush and expect a spray varnished result you would be better of with an oil based full strength varnish.

3. 
   johngr2022 | Feb 19, 2022 10:15pm | #3

   GF Arm-R-Seal has been my go to finish for table tops. Generally the wood is smoothed with a hand scraper (even the 4' x 5' conference table in the photo) and then several coats of Arm-R-Seal (4+) with light sand in between. I use Abranet net style made for use with a orbital sander on a cork lined block. 320 very lightly. Drips, drops, blobs etc. are smoothed with a very sharp hand scraper. Let the final coat dry for a few days to insure complete hard cure. I then sand light with a 800 abranet and then rub out with paste wax and 0000 steel wool. Buff and then you are. the finish will have a wonderful satin sheen and the feel of the wood is still there, making you want to just keep on touching the piece.
   The pieces in the pictures are a kitchen table made with cherry, ambrosia maple and purple heart; hall table made with blue (beetle kill) pine and the conference table made with elm sourced from an 1860's Wisconsin dairy barn. They have all stood up well over the past several years.
   Forgot to say this: use a high quality foam brush (not Harbor freight). Makes a very smooth and easy application. They are sometimes hard to find.
   Good Luck

   
4. 
   dberk | Apr 15, 2022 05:19pm | #4

   I've used it on the last 50 or so boxes I made. Foolproof stuff. Procedure below. Keep in mind - these boxes are quick turnaround, production stuff, not personal projects, so quick and easy finishing process (not heirloom quality) is key in order to make any $.

   On porous woods -
   - 2 coats of 1lb cut shellac to seal the pores (and reduce the number of Arm R Seal coats needed)
   - Very light sand
   - Foam brush on Arm R Seal (gloss, can always knock down the sheen). Put it on quite thick, and keep all areas wet for a few minutes. Then lightly wipe off the excess with a cloth, leaving a noticeable coat.
   - Let dry 24 hours.
   - Light sand with 600-800 grit.
   - Second coat if needed (but wipe off most of it, don't leave a noticeable coat).
   - Let dry 24 hours.
   - 800 grit light sand just to smooth out the finish.

   It levels exceedingly well. It seems like it can take a few weeks or more to fully cure, so I would hold off on any wax, etc. It can noticeably out-gas for a couple weeks.

   i've used it on oak, ash, mahogany, cherry, wenge, tzalam, spanish cedar, ... Works on all, just need to vary procedure a little based on porosity/grain of wood and the amount of top coat you want. i think the can recommends 3 coats. I have found that even with 3 coats it can start to look a little plastic-y.

   Here it is on some quick ash and mahogany boxes. I make them for a local pet cremation company to use as pet urns.

   
5. 
   JEarch | Apr 16, 2022 12:23am | #5

   I have used Arm-R-Seal for many years, on furniture, built-ins, doors, banisters, and kitchen cabinets, mostly cherry, all with great success. It has an in-the-wood look that I prefer over an on-the-wood look finish, and seems to provide good protection. After 18 years I have one kitchen cabinet in need of a refresh, but that is more from UV damage from our high-altitude Colorado sun than anything else.

   I typically apply by padding it on with a lint-free cloth. Contrary to what is usually recommended with wipe-on varnishes, I don’t flood it on and wait to wipe off — it is more of a continuous process of laying it on and wiping off, progressing over the surface working off a wet edge. It is important to wipe off in long strokes while it is still wet. It’s a bugger if you try to wipe after it has started to set. I lightly hand sand with P400 between coats (particularly after the first coat). Depending upon use/potential for abuse and desired sheen, I’ll typically apply 2 to 3 coats, with at least 24 hours between (4 coats on a cherry banister which has a lovely tactile low gloss sheen after nearly 20 years). Then a week to fully cure and off gas before being put into use. Once cured/polymerized, it is fine for a chemically-sensitive family member.

   Originally I used only the satin version. I have since moved on to using the gloss version for the early coats to eliminate the amount of flattening agent in the multiple coats for more clarity of finish, especially on curly cherry and similar woods. I then use whatever sheen I desire for the final coat, gently rubbing it out with a soft cloth after curing.