All,
I’m in the process of making some raised panels by hand. I don’t have the router stuff and because there 12×28 the TS really won’t work unless I build a jig. I’m getting tired, this red oak is a full 1″ thick and it hard.
So here is the question, if I made a sled for my planer, and jacked up one side of board, so that the planer cut would produce a 15 degree slope, how high would one side of the board have to be? I’m thinking, if i elevated the long side about 3″…that would produce a 15 degree slope. But I’m looking for second opinions
Replies
You essentially are looking to solve for the tangent of 15 degrees, assuming a 28 inch wide jig.
For a 28" wide jig (your widest dimension, and an AWFULLY big planer), assuming one end is at reference 0" high, the other end needs to be 7.5" high.
Assuming, however, that you really are looking to use a 15" or smaller planer, for a 12" wide jig, the high side should be 3.2" higher, and for a 15", the high side should be 4" higher. If you are looking for a small jig, a 6" wide jig should be 1.6" higher. I would suggest making your jig as wide as your planer.
For reference, the equation you are trying to solve is 15 degrees = tan ( height / jig width ).
In Excel (which, for some reason uses radians, not degrees) this equates to Jig Heigth Differential = TAN (angle * PI / 180) * jig width.
Doug
I used sine instead of tangent, on the assumption that the panel would be the hypotenuse of the triangle instead of the base. At 15 degrees, the numbers come out pretty close, but not identical.
Edited 12/14/2002 6:50:11 PM ET by Uncle Dunc
Thanks Guys,
I was able to do the ends with my tenon jig...but the long side is another story. So, If I take my 12 wide board, somehow jack it up 3.1-3.2 inches on one side at a time..and run it through the planer..taking light cuts..I should get fairly close to a 15 degree slope on each side ...and if i don't ....I can buy more oak tomorrow...lol
Yup - could do it using Sine as well, but I figured he would have an easier time figuring out where to put the riser (assuming he built a jig, and didn't just prop up one side of the piece) if I gave a simple to measure base width, which would also keep the piece square on it's way through the planer.
As you said, the results are close enough - 14.7-15.3 degree differences are not going to be noticed :)
d-
Good guess. The height for the 12" dimension is 3.10". For the 28" dimension, you'd have to jack it up 7.25", but I guess that's not very useful if your planer is less than 28" wide.
A piece of unsolicited advice. A solar powered calculator with trig functions can be had for $15 or less. Of course you do have to remember which function to use. :)
No offense but you said that you didn't want to use the table saw because you would have to make a jig. You are going to have to make a jig for the planer as well and it won't work at all on the end grain. Seems kind of silly to me. I would just build the table saw jig and get it over with. It will be much faster and you could surely use it for other things as well.
Tom
Edited 12/14/2002 5:59:06 PM ET by Tom
Tom,
Your probably correct...making a jig for the TS makes some sense. I did have one for my old saw for raised panels..and never used it. This one would need to be at least 30" long and slide over the fense (box in fense) with at least 12" height...coupla clamps. Also, when I did the ends in the tenon jig I got a lot of burn on the wood.
In the back of my mind is my next project ...a router table..which will allow me to do the other approach to raised panels. I'm looking to get this job done (its for tool storage) so i can get onto real projects....
Do you own a hand plane, #7 jointer or a jack?
About 10 years ago I watched my dad champher the underside of a table he was making for my sister. The process is the same as raising a panel, just on a larger scale 36in by 72in. Using the #7 he did the whole table, including the cross grain cuts, in less tha 2 hours. How long will it take to make the jig?
Ian,
I have a #7 and a Jack (#5) ...and its a lot of fun working on this oak (yeah, right, ugh). This will take at least 2 hours of steady work...maybe 3 with balancing.
I prefer to do Mahognay by hand. It's nice and soft and the wood gives up easily. Whenever I sweat I start to get creative. That is why I started to think about the portable planer and the geometry..
Update
It is now noon on Sunday and I just finished planing the 15 degree angle on both boards. It would have been a lot easier if I had decided up front that a 1" rather than a 2 1/2" boarder was okay..sigh. Anyhow, there done and they look okay and everytime I see them I'll have special memories. Without my 350 lb. workbench it never coulda happened....I still made that sucker dance all over the basement....lol
I just
Edited 12/15/2002 12:36:57 PM ET by BG
Not sure why you can't do them on your table saw without making an elaborate jig. A simple right angle jig would hold the panels stable through the saw. Something like this pic. The jig in the pic is actually for sawing an acute angle but it would work just as well to raise a panel.
Steve K
Krumy,
Very Interesting, simple yet it gets the job done. I was planning to box in the fense with a sliding 12" panel with stops at each end. When I did the ends on the tenon jig I got a tremendous amount of burn on the wood. Another alternative I tried to reduce the planing was to take a japanese saw and take a slice off at an angle....that was amazingly tough to do, I stoped after about 20 minutes and had only gone about 1.5 inches into the wood.
It took me about 4-5 hours to plane both panels...lots of breaks. I just got finished fitting everything together, now sand forever and glue up.
thanks for the idea, that goes in the vault for next time
BG, those who know me well say I'm especially good at simple stuff! :) Anyway, you can take that idea and make it as simple or as elaborate as you like. It can be wider and have room for a handle if needed. Hope it works well for you. Test cuts will help to get the feel of using it. Thanks for the reply!!
Steve
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