Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Oct 20, 2004 04:05pm | #1

   There are fillers that will take stain and some that won't. You used one that won't.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   WJPowers | Oct 21, 2004 09:30pm | #7

   Hammer, You gave a great clue! By seeing your statment thatPor-o-pak does not take additional coats, I decided to see just how dry it really was. Found I still had some time to make adjustments, and did. I rubbed the surface with open grit dry wall sander. Then I added stain cut with @ 5% Por-o-Pak. That did the trick. Now I've got the 2 coats dry & sanded. I just added a top coat of cherry stain finish, to bring out some highlights. Thanks for your suggestion!
   Bill Powers

2. 
   jackplane | Oct 20, 2004 05:51pm | #2

   400 g is quite high if you're hoping to re-stain that oak. I wouldn't go higher than 220g before restaining. If than pore filler cannot be removed chemically, sanding may be the option.

   In other words, the finer the grit, the less stain can be absorbed.

   
   

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   Edited 10/20/2004 11:41 am ET by JACKPLANE

1. 
   WJPowers | Oct 21, 2004 09:32pm | #8

   Mr. Plane, Thankls for the tip. I used 220 to get on a coat of cherry stain for highlighting, after i figured out how to get the surface pores darker. The 220 really helped, no beading at all!
   Bill Powers

3. 
   toddhunter | Oct 20, 2004 08:27pm | #3

   Not sure about the puddling, but if that's the problem, you probably could seal with shellac, then tone the wood with more stain. Toning is described in Flexner's book and others, and you can get good advice at the Homestead Finishing site. Todd

1. 
   WJPowers | Oct 21, 2004 09:33pm | #9

   Todd, Thanks for the tip. I did not have to use it, but will keep it in the "bag o tricks" for future remedies.Bill Powers

4. 
   Alan | Oct 21, 2004 01:09am | #4

   William,

   Now is a little late to bring this up, but it might be useful to you.  I hope so.

   I have one inviolable rule when it comes to finishing:  there should be no surprises.

   I always, ALWAYS, ALWAYS test the finishing regimen I have in mind before I put at risk a project that I've slaved  over for who knows how long.  If something doesn't work, or doesn't look right--or if for any reason whatever--I change my mind, I always go back to square one and again test the entire process.

   I always have scrap left over that are too small or too oddly shaped, or too something, for anything else--anything else except testing the finish.  I go all the way through the process, all the way from sanding to waxing--if wax is the end, of course.

   With a Sharpie permanent-ink pen I write somewhere on my test scraps exactly what I did.  I keep them all.  They are a wonderful resource.

   I'm sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

   Alan

1. 
   WJPowers | Oct 21, 2004 09:23pm | #6

   Alan,
   You are right about the testing. I do many of the things you do. In this case, I just followed the step by stp given by Dave Sorg in a finishing video. I knew if I went too dark to start, all the oak,not just the pores would be too dark. So I guessed, that the second coat would fill the remaining grain & I'd get a more hickory look than oak result. WJP

5. 
   Clay | Oct 21, 2004 08:16am | #5

   You can't do more adjustments with stain but you can use a tinted clear coat (called a toner this is technically a glaze but is called toner to differentiate from a glaze that is meant to be manipulated to attain a patterned multi toned look) to adjust your finish "look".