Replies

1. 
   KeithNewton | Sep 17, 2005 09:51pm | #1

   I like to use a sled with the stop affixed to it. If you still have a problem, then your blade may not be at 90*. Whenever you have had your saw tilted, before you return to 90* make sure that dust doesn't get packed in the end of the arc in the front of the saw base where the height / hand- wheel resides.

1. 
   BG | Sep 18, 2005 02:05pm | #8

   KeithNewton,
   I have not tried using the sled with a stop for tenons. I'm a bit concerned that the dog-eared MDO edge of the sled would inhibit accurate depth of cut of the tenons...I will try it.
   I've been using the Incra 1000se for tenons, that also has a stop. Recently, however, I squared up some heavy longish stock and noticed the Incra was not up to the job....got parrallelograms, the sled worked perfectly and corrected the problem.
   I'm pretty good about squaring everything up before I cut, including always raising the blade to the depth instead of lowering the blade to the depth. I'm not so much of a beginner anymore that I can count on luck..

1. 
   KeithNewton | Sep 18, 2005 04:31pm | #14

   BG, I made my sled out of plywood, and have used it with dado blades and tilted, so the slot is wide. However for fine work, I always have a sub-base bradded or carpet taped on it so there is zero clearance for the blade. After you set the blade height, cut one blade width from the end of your stop block before you set it to eliminate and dust in the corner problem between cuts.If you do this and still have a problem, then your blade may be parallel to the fence, but not to the slot, or you blade is dull on one side, and veers toward the sharp side after the cut is started.

2. 
   Routerman | Sep 17, 2005 10:41pm | #2

   There is another way. These guys were routed.

   More on the method & jig at the tenon-maker link.

1. 
   BG | Sep 18, 2005 02:10pm | #9

   Routerman,
   Thanks for the idea and the link. I need to examine this alternative more carefully. However, the other day I had the Whiteside Upspiral break on me in the mortice...I'm kinda shocked to learn this is not such an uncommon thing to happen.

3. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Sep 17, 2005 11:04pm | #3

   That was something I noticed too.   For me, the problem turned out to be that the fence's face was tilted.  That is, if I put a square with one leg on the table and one leg sticking up in the air, the in-the-air leg wasn't touching the face along its entire height.   I made a new wooden face for the fence, and tapered it so that the new face is exactly at right angle to the table, and now my tenon shoulders are clean.

1. 
   BG | Sep 18, 2005 02:14pm | #10

   Buxton,
   Good thought, I'll double check. The other related issue is my Bies knock-off fense has a plastic face....and I'm not sure it's perfectly flat either...causing variation as the stock goes through on the vertical..hmmm

4. 
   BrentS | Sep 18, 2005 06:25am | #4

   Could be your problem is the piece slipping ever so slightly on the miter gauge during the cut. Try putting a strip of PSA sandpaper on your miter gauge and see if that makes a difference.

    

   Brent

1. 
   BG | Sep 18, 2005 02:16pm | #11

   BrentS,
   I'll try the sandpaper, perhaps that will mitigate the hand pressure variations a bit. thanks

5. 
   philip | Sep 18, 2005 07:30am | #5

   In addition to what Keith has said: is your miter slide set at 90*?
   If it is at 90*, and the saw blade is at 90* and the blade is parrallel the line of cut, then you get what you want.
   And, in further addition, since you will be registering against a stop with the end of the work peice, this end too must be square both ways. So it's a lot easier to just be sure that everything you can think of is SQUARE.
   As an aside, this is one more reason why I love my heavy radial arm saw-assuming the usual precautions taken (no saw dust at bottom of fence etc)it is the last word in consistently accurate 90* cuts....Philip Marcou

   
   

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   Edited 9/18/2005 4:32 am ET by philip

1. 
   BG | Sep 18, 2005 02:25pm | #12

   Phillip,
   I'm pretty good at measuring up everything square before I cut, including making sure the miter is square. As I mentioned, with a longish, heavy piece of stock the Incra 1000se may not be up to the task...the miter dosen't keep the stock square.

6. 
   rporcaro | Sep 18, 2005 07:31am | #6

   Yes, I've had the same problem sometimes. The end of the workpiece must be exactly square (both ways) and the stop block against which it registers must also be square (both ways). Otherwise you will be slightly mis-registering the tenon length/shoulder position each time you make a pass for different shoulders. Also, of course, the table saw must be tuned - blade square, miter slot parallel to blade, miter guage square - and the stock must be flat and straight.

   With all those requierements, it's a wonder that it ever does work out well. Really, for just several tenons, I get it done faster all by hand or sometimes I go for very close with the machines, then take out the shoulder plane and I'm in control.

   Good luck.

1. 
   philip | Sep 18, 2005 11:51am | #7

   WW, the machines are for getting in exactly, not close.When there are only a few tenons to make, and a discrepancy has crept in(!), then one may whip out that shoulder plane and cure the problem-BUT prevention is better than cure, so it is better to start off square and equal i.e the faces and edges square and the work pieces cut (square) to consistent length-otherwise the registration principle does not work.
   An amazing number of mortice and tenons are going to be cut even by casual wood workers, so it is best to get a reliable method sorted out at the onset. That applies to tenons made by the router method as well.Philip Marcou

2. 
   BG | Sep 18, 2005 04:11pm | #13

   WWonthewww,
   Exactly, hense the post...are our expectations to high relative to the quality of our machines. It's nice to hear there not to high..just learner learning curve. Unfortunately, I don't have a shoulder plane and paring away with a chisel ...pita. Regardless of how well the suggestions solve my problem I need a back up in a good shoulder plane.