Replies

1. 
   jonsherryl | Apr 05, 2003 07:00pm | #1

   Rob, I think your best strategy is to be very careful in stock selection. That amber-orange color of beech that you like so much results from the natural patina of old growth heartwood.

   Steaming does help to darken the wood a little and it's a common practice in Europe (I think more for stabilizing this notoriously unstable wood, than to alter its color)...but the chemistry of beech doesn't lend itself to chemical means of couterfeiting this look. Although beech is related to oak, it has very low tannin content (one of the reasons it also has poor decay resistance), so it won't react to ammonia, which would work to darken either oak or chestnut.

   You seem to be tied in to local mills, but our native beech does have regional differences. While botanists consider North American beech (Fagus grandifolia) as a single species, there are about four races of this species spread out from southern Canada to northern Mexico. In my experience, southern beech lumber seems to have a more reddish cast...but going that far afield in sourcing it might not be an option you're willing to consider.

   
   

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   Edited 4/5/2003 12:03:00 PM ET by Jon Arno

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 06, 2003 12:14am | #3

   Hi Jon, your distinguished presence has also been requested in:

   http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg=11594.1

   Entitled "Stinkwood"  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 05, 2003 07:23pm | #2

   Rob, I don't know as I would use beech for interior trim. Beech is a very unstable wood and frequently goes into all sorts of contorsions as its moisture content changes.

3. 
   DavidxDoud | Apr 06, 2003 06:21am | #4

   well,  at the risk of being simplistic,  there is always stain - - how much of the color you admire is of the wood and how much from the shellac used to finish it? -

   PS - go ahead - be fearless and use this hard to work,  rather unstable wood - try to design systems that allow for movement and keep it dry - -

4. 
   robkress | Apr 06, 2003 05:03pm | #5

   Thanks all for the advice.  It looks like staining is going to be my best option.  But that is still a very good option (I'll be able to very specifically define the color).

   As for stability.... yes I am aware of the pitfalls with beech.  And I'll be taking extra precautions in that regard.

   Thanks again

   Rob Kress

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 06, 2003 08:49pm | #7

   I recently re-read an FW article on using gel stains (#158, October).  On page 63 there are color photos of 5 different brands of cherry stain on cherry and pine.  You might want to take a look.  A couple of the brands lend a significant orange tint, easily seen in the photos.  The author includes useful statements about consistency, ease of use, and quirks of the various brands.  Color can be modified with Japan colors.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

5. 
   RevTed | Apr 06, 2003 06:46pm | #6

   Call the nice folks at West Penn http://www.westpennhardwoods.com/specials.htm they have some Euro steamed beech for $2.75 b/f and will cut it to size for you. More importantly for your purpose, they will be able to tell you how much of the stock is available with the deeper hue. They are less than 200 miles from you.

   T