Replies

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Mar 31, 2005 10:47pm | #1

   David... Welcome to the board. You should get 2 or 3 answers here, then opt for the one that works best for you. First, you should get 'double thick' glass. It's about 3/16 inch thick. Second, and more important, when you have finished the door, take it to the glazer. Let HIM do the cutting to the size of the opening. If he goofs, it won't cost you anything. If you goof on the measurements, you will have an expensive piece of glass that you can't use. The inside 'molding' will hold the glass nicely in place without using any silicone adhesive. Just be VERY careful when nailing the moldings in place. Another option is to use the silicone to secure the inner molding. That way you get a real tight fit without getting a hammer near the glass. SawdustSteve

2. 
   DougF | Apr 01, 2005 12:13am | #2

   David,

   There is restoration glass and there is art glass that is used in stained glass work that is almost identical to period glass used in these cabinets and at a lower cost.  Regarding glass rattling around, small beads of strategically-placed silicone will solve the problem  Another approach is glue place small pats of thin fet to act as a cushioning material. 

   Doug

3. 
   hammer1 | Apr 01, 2005 04:55am | #3

   Remember the fragile nature of glass. Silicone isn't very easy to remove if the glass should break. Felt or glazing compound is easier to deal with if you have to replace the glass. When you use a wood molding, be extra careful about the brads nicking the edge of the glass, it doesn't take much to crack the pane. I'm not always comfortable leaving doors at the glass shop. I will often make a template out of cardboard and leave that with them. Cutting glass cannot be done accurately to the 1/16" so make sure you allow some slack with your measurements. Heavier or slag glass is even more difficult to cut so don't try to get things down to the 1/8", you never want to force it in to place. I go to a local stained glass supplier often and they have an amazing selection. I have quite a bit of glass cutting experience but I always leave it to the glass shop. I also spend a few minutes talking with them to discuss the importance of the use. A couple months ago I had a few dozen polished edge shelves made, I'll be darned if they didn't cut half of them out of square just a little. Glass cutters don't seem to have the same mind set as woodworkers for accuracy.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

4. 
   BG | Apr 01, 2005 04:30pm | #4

   dminnery,
   Recently I bought a piece of glass for a shaker clock (just the clock section..about 10x12"). I didn't even think about special glass, I went to the hardware store. He cut three pieces before he got it right....cost $1.50...felt kinda guilty.
   The nail thing scared me cause I only had 3/16th qtr round molding. I put a rabbit on the underside (using a larger piece of stock) of the qtr round and screwed the molding to the frame..that way it can be removed easily if needed in the future. Not sure it's the way to go but...

    

5. 
   WillGeorge | Apr 01, 2005 07:11pm | #5

   I have never used it.. SO..

   Rockler has different types of glass for cabinets.. Plastic?

   I'm not sure.. but may be worth a look?

   
   

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   Edited 4/1/2005 12:21 pm ET by Will George

6. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Apr 02, 2005 03:10am | #6

   I'm a stained glass guy and a furniture guy.  Go to a stained glass shop and look at the many options of clear glass.  Seedy, Glue chip, Waterglass..its' all fairly inexpensive...around $6-$8 per square foot..and if you make nice, they might cut it for you too.

   I'm shocked at the prices that Rockler charges for the same glass..but then they've got to ship it, small volumes, etc...I take that back..smile.

   Where are you?  I might be able to recommend a place....

   lp

   http://www.kesslercraftsman.com