Replies

1. 
   argus | Aug 21, 2003 07:15pm | #1

   Hmmmmm,

   I suggest that you check your local regulations about safety glass. Ordinary glass thatis not toughened can be lethal if someone collides with it. Different locales have different rules, and it can depend on the actual area where it is in use, open to the public, access to children, height off the ground etc.

   The best place to search is the national safety standard for furniture manufacturers in your country.

   That said, I have made lots of cabinets with glass doors.

   1. I ALWAYS use laminated, toughened glass.
   2. It looks better if it is chamfered (bevelled). Extra cost, but a professional finish.
   3. The bevel allows you to position it in a rebate and to still keep the proportions of the door.
   4. You then keep it in place with a decorative bead. I tend to use brass screws so that in the event of any mishaps the glass can be replaced without major surgery to the door. Glaziers beads are really there to hold it in place and stop it from rattling around. Don't forget to align all the slots in the screw heads
   5. Cut the glass undersized to allow for wood movement - about 3 - 4 mm is enough.
   6. That's all there is to it.

   Good luck

1. 
   ccampbell | Aug 22, 2003 12:49am | #2

   Okay, so if I'm going to go ahead with regular glass, and I'm going to set the glass in a rabbet that I put in the back of the door, does anyone have experience with just using silicone and glazier's points?

   I don't want to cut a retainer strip because I don't really have room for it, and the cabinet doors are painted, so it wouldn't match.

   The little rubber and plastic glass retainer clips don't seem to be deep enough to create a tight fit.

   I was hoping to just be able to set it down in a bead of silicone with a little reinforcement from the points.  Will that hold?

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Aug 22, 2003 02:09am | #3

   Yeah, caulk will hold it.   The glaziers points don't add much after the caulk is cured.   You might consider opaque caulk which is somewhat the color of the wood, so you don't see the cut edges of the glass through the caulk.   On the front side, let the caulk squeeze out and cure.  Then you slice off the squeeze-out with a razor blade.  On the rear, tool it while it is still wet.

1. 
   scooter1 | Aug 22, 2003 08:58pm | #4

   Be carefull with the silicone. It will smear and ooze out of the front. If you can, color it or tint it with a color that matches the cabinet.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   gecko | Aug 26, 2003 02:51am | #7

   Silicone alone will hold it with no problem at all. i just finished a job that required hanging very large mirrors on a wall, all that was needed was a few globs of silicone on the drywall and push the mirror into it. Some tape to hold the mirror in place while the silicone set up was needed, but that’s it. Remember, the only thing holding those huge aquariums together is a bit of silicone.

   Edited 8/25/2003 7:53:11 PM ET by gecko

3. 
   stevemorris | Sep 02, 2003 11:46pm | #8

   my glass supplier fastens glass in my kitchen cabinet doors with a bead of silicon after the glass is inserted, doesnt use tempered glass, does a really neat job toocaulking is not a piece of trim

2. 
   fredsmart48 | Aug 24, 2003 02:02pm | #5

   In that case that you are going to use none safety glass.  Make sure your customer specks the none safety glass  and it is described as None SAFETY GLASS on the contract . You should have him initial the line that say  None SAFETY GLASS

   If you don't you could find yourself in court with no proof,  trying to explain why you did not use the safety glass.  When a 4 year old has half of her face missing is sitting looking at the jury.

3. 
   dirtstirrer | Aug 25, 2003 09:54pm | #6

   Thought this might give you some peace of mind,  I built a pie rack for our resturant, shaped roughly like Lonnie Birds secretary from FWW.  I scaled it down, changed a few things and ended up with some pretty tall glass doors.  I used tempered glass, and just silicone.  Those doors get used and abused every day, and work flawlessly.  I don't think the glaziers points would add anything really, not to mention they could be a bear to push into oak or some other hardwoods. 

   Steve

4. 
   notDusty | Sep 03, 2003 03:40am | #9

              Campbelldust,                 For many many years the glass shop that does my work has simply used a small bead of clear silicone under and sometimes they glaze it in after the glass is installed also . Another method is special double sticky tape placed in the rabbit , then press the glass in on top of it. You could also use silicone to glaze them in over the glass.Some of the woodworker supply stores sell small thumb screws of sorts that hold the glass in place . As far as tempered glass goes , generally it is only required when the glass is close to the floor,unless local codes state differently,and FYI tempered glass I believe needs to be ordered to size , the  local glass shops can't cut it.    hope this helps         good luck