I’m a rookie in the finishing department, but I’ve seen this kind of finish on kitchen cabinetry and I’d like to replicate it on some stuff of my own. I’ve seen two general types: one is opaque in that no grain is visible – more of a painted finish. The second is somewhat translucent, thus allowing grain to be visible through the finish. I’ve attached a photo that kind of illustrates what I’m looking to do.
The former would allow me to use MDF on door panels, but the latter looks more like wood. Not sure which way I’ll go yet.
Any suggestions on books, articles, whatever that shows how to do this?
Thanks.
Replies
Not sure what your question is, but you can't go too far wrong with either Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood FInishing" (Second Edition) or Jeff Jewitt's "Complete Illustrated Guide to Wood Finishing"
If you plan to use a glaze, you will need to top coat with a clear finish.
I've done some of the distressed painted finishes, sometimes called "Habersham" or "Shabby Chic". Different manufacturers use names like "Capuccino", "Moca Latte". It's a multi-step process but it is fun to do.
The last kitchen I did with the distressed look, the customer wanted the wood grain effect but a painted surface. I used red oak and did some skip filling of the pores. I was able to get some red primer, which was the undercolor we wanted. I primed, skip filled, sanded and primed again. For dark brown colors you will have to use a stain instead of primer. Once the stain/primer is dry, it's time to apply the color coat. I used an inexpensive latex paint. I tried samples with some Pro-Mar but it was too good, you couldn't sand it out. Allow the paint to thoroughly dry.
Larger shops and manufacturers often use colored lacquer instead of paint. It's expensive if you have to try out a few color varieties and it isn't easy to spray for a part time sprayer like me.
Now you can start rubbing out the paint to expose the color underneath. I use a combination of 320 and 0000 steel wool. It's OK to expose a little bare wood, just be careful not to overdo it, especially on edges. Once you are happy with the sand through, the next step is glazing.
I like oil base glazing liquid better than waterbase. It gives you more time to work. Mix universal colorants or artists colors with the liquid to get the color you want. There are all kinds of ways to glaze, some flow it over the whole surface while others just use it in certain places. I just daub some on and work it with a rag. Let the glazing dry. Some use a stain instead of glazing liquid. Just make sure it doesn't bleed with the top coats and sticks to the paint.
I used waterbase poly for the top coats. After the first coat I did a little fly specking, finished top coating then blocked out and buffed out with 0000 steel wool.
At the time I was doing this kitchen, maybe four years ago, the techniques were fairly new. My local SW has a commercial coatings department. We couldn't find any information on this type of finish then. Manufacturers were not sharing their secrets. They comped me a bunch of materials to try. Staying fairly simple seemed to work the best for me, especially using the cheap latex. The actual protective layer is the top coats. There have been some posts at Woodweb on this type of finish since I did that kitchen. It might be worth a look. Make sure you do some samples. I only have a poor picture of that kitchen in my signature "Verde Venetia".
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
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