Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Mar 13, 2010 09:40am | #1

   There are a number of choices for coatings and you can choose what you are comfortable with. Essentially you start with a primer, then the color coat. When that is dry you can use glazing liquid mixed with the colorant shade of your choice. I prefer oil based liquid because it gives you a long working time. I use artists colors to mix with the liquid, madder brown, van dyke brown, burnt umber, etc. Apply the glaze where you want it and wipe off the excess. It will leave color anywhere it gets on the color coat. Allow the glaze to dry and then top coat.

   The ones I have done have also been distressed. I used a colored primer. In places I would add nicks and dings or sand through the color coat to expose the primer in typical wear spots. Then do as above. I have used paint but others use colored lacquer. On this one, I used a low grade latex, not an acrylic since I wanted to feather out the distressing. I used the oil liquid with venitian red, did some fly specking and top coated with a waterborne.

   
1. 
   Hastings | Mar 14, 2010 01:11pm | #2

   That's a very handsome effect.

   You say that the glaze will adhere anywhere it gets on the color coat so how do you create a highlight? Can you just wipe more of the excess off until you get more off the base color?

   BTW, How do you do the fly specking?

   Thanks for your help.

   Hastings

1. 
   hammer1 | Mar 14, 2010 09:12pm | #3

   Since the glazing liquid will contain the pigment you choose to add to it, it acts like a stain. If, for example, you wanted the center of a door panel to remain the pure color you painted and not have a slight tint from removed glaze, you would want to be careful not to spread the glaze on that part of the door. Once you mix some up and do a sample, you will understand what I mean. From the picture you showed, most of the glazing seems to be in the molding cracks. You would apply the glaze with a suitable sized brush, then wipe off as you see fit. This part is always at the discretion of the finisher and the look they are trying to achieve.

   The amount of glaze that is applied, and left on, is what creates the look. You can feather it out to a light shadow or leave it thicker for a strong color. You can also use a rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove most of it or to help wipe any that dries ahead of you.

   I do my fly specking with a tooth brush and flicking the bristles with my thumb. This takes some practice, too. Fly specks are dark brown and lay flat. I've used a lot of different paints I've had laying around. Things like an enamel will leave a droplet that is not flat. I like artist acrylic paint that comes in a small bottle. It can be thinned with water. The specking wants to be very light, a little sporatic and have different size spots. Just like the glaze, it will be very clear once you do some practicing. You have to be careful not to drop a big blob on the work. Tooth brushes don't hold paint well and can run off. The specking adds quite a bit to the visual effect when you want some distressing.

   When I was working on the finish in my pics, I made a couple of sample doors. The first few tries were sad. It's difficult to do samples just on a plain board, you really need the moldings and the variations in the surface to know how it will actually look. Don't start in on your work without some meaningful practice.

1. 
   Hastings | Mar 16, 2010 01:48pm | #4

   Thanks great

   I really appreciate your help.

   Hastings