Replies

1. 
   AlanYoung | May 10, 2005 03:40pm | #1

   Hi Taylormade,

   I think glaze is a pretty flexible term. When I think of glaze it is a top coat ie a shellac or varnish etc with a tone. I recently built a set of cabinets with a "glaze". I first stained the cabinets with a gel stain as per the directions on the can. A couple of coats wiped on left for a time then wiped off. After the stain was dry the glaze was appplied. In my case I mixed the gel stain with a Tung Oil varnish and applied several coats. The mixture is according to taste. I am repeating the process on a cabinet I am currently working on:

   http://www.woodwardwoodworks.com/CabinetmakersSecretary2.html

   Alan

   
2. 
   hammer1 | May 10, 2005 04:01pm | #2

   Most paint and hardware stores sell glazing liquid in water or oil base. The liquid is clear and you add colorants to it. I like the oil base because it gives some working time. You can use artist paints or paint colorant to add to the liquid. The glaze is often applied after the stain or paint has been applied and dry. It can be applied with a rag or brush. It is often used as a highlight and left in the grooves and crannies to add a dimensional or aged quality to the look. Once dry, it can be top coated.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
3. 
   zorrosdens | May 11, 2005 05:05am | #3

   There are at least a few ways and types of glazing.....I'll tell you what I've learned in one type and way of doing it.  It's very easy and once you try it you'll learn the things that you can do to have different effects.  We did antique replicas and we would distress the piece before and a bit after the first stain coat. We used to do ALOT of laquering, some over a stain coat or opaque colors (solid).  If we stained, we sealed it with the lacquer or sanding sealer, then (after we smoothed that with 240 grit) we would make up a glaze...or what we sometimes called our "dirt" mix.  We would use naphtha and whatever UTC (universal tinting colors) that would give the tone we were looking for and liked.  The naphtha is like a paint thinner, only a bit faster evaporating, though not like lacquer thinner.  The UTC's were not the latex type....we used the oil type for enamels and lacquers.  They go a long way...the black, burnt umber, Vandyke brown, red, yellow...and even a blue is handy, they were in small cans but can be had in any amount.  Two brushes are needed here, one for applying the mixture to your piece and the other for "dry brushing" and blending.  Buy the best brushes, Purdy's or Wooster's, a 2-1/2" angled tip for applying and a good wide 4" for the blend and dry brushing.  Apply the mixture to an area of your piece and then as the naphtha evaporates brush the area with your dry brush to leave a toned effect behind (especially in any nooks and crannies or distressing); how dark your mix is and how well you dry brush it out, (very much or not), will give the effect of a hue of darkness in these areas.  The beauty of this system is that if you don't like what you've done, you simply wipe it off with fresh naphtha and start again...no effect to your previous work...nice for getting the feel of this technique.  As you dry brush, your brush will collect an amount of glaze on it and it will build up...you can wipe it off the brush as you go, with a rag, or leave it to dab more tone on your piece just from the dry brush...you'll see, whatever you want the effect to be.  Once you get the coloring you like on the piece, seal it with a light coat of lacquer and you are ready to do another round of the same or a different color batch to add something else to the effective toning.  Good luck.  I know this is a bit involved but if you try it you will love the things you can do...and a spray rig of some type is needed.   ~Z~

   
   

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   Edited 5/11/2005 8:30 pm ET by zorro