Replies

1. 
   RMillard | Feb 26, 2006 05:44pm | #1

   I think federal period pieces look best with a high luster. You should begin by filling the grain. You can get a high luster with shellac by brushing or padding and rubbing out, but my favorite method is to brush on a coat of shellac (letting it cure, and sanding lightly) and follow with padding lacquer. I have used the Behlen Qualasole with great results. After the padding lacquer has cured a day or so, I rub it lightly with Liberon fine steel wood with mineral oil as a lubricant. I work the the steel wool backed with an eraser, going in long straight strokes, lifting at the end. Going back and forth makes for a distorted scratch pattern at the ends.

   For the tops, I find that shellac and the padding lacquer, do not have enough scratch resistance, so I use varnish. Unfortunately varnish is a somewhat difficult product to use and eats up a lot of time curing. I use Behlen Rock Hard Table Top Varnish. It is an extremely durable coating. If you are interested in more information on it, let me know.

   Also, have you tried your gel stain over the inlays yet? I think you will be disappointed in the way it works. Not only will it muddy the inlays, but the clarity of the mahogany will be degraded.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

1. 
   pmmatty | Feb 27, 2006 01:24am | #2

   Dear Rob:

   Thanks for the help.  Am also considering aniline dye and "painting" the inlay with lacquer so that the dye will not adhere. any thoughts on this approach?

   PMM

1. 
   RMillard | Feb 27, 2006 02:35am | #3

   Have have sealed the inlays with Deft brushing lacquer and then used dyes. There are several drawbacks to this. The obvious one, is the percision required in sealing the inlays. The other is, the dye will want to seep into the inlays at the edges. Also, the mahogany will darken on its own over time, so what looks good today, may be too dark in the future.

   The link below describes the process I use to color inlaid pieces.

   Rob Millard

    http://home.woh.rr.com/federalfurniture/finishing.htm

1. 
   pmmatty | Feb 27, 2006 03:26pm | #4

   Dear Rob:

   thanks again. Looks like I have my work cut out for me.  PMM

2. 
   JayS | Mar 01, 2006 07:31pm | #5

   You can use potasium dichromate (potash) which will darken the mahogany but not holly or satinwood.  Also does very little to maple.  It's supposed to be quite toxic, so use gloves.  It comes as a powder that you dissolvein water and vary the concentration to determine how much it darkens the piece.  Since it's selective, you don't have to mask any inlays.

   Jay

2. 
   DonC | Mar 01, 2006 09:28pm | #6

   Some of the finest guitars in gloss are nitrocellulouse lacquer and poished with punice and rottenstone. auto buffing products can be substituted for old traditional aggregrates.

   Wait 1 month before buffing to high gloss. Catalytic lacquers can be buffed sooner but it seems this product is only sold at professional level.  I could be wrong.