Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 14, 2008 03:30am | #1

   A very good question and I would not dare to try to give you an answer that works in all cases.

   1) I sometimes just live with it.

   2) I use alot of blue painters tape.

   3) I scrape the glue off.

   4) 'TRY' to get it off just after is 'beads up' and sort of solid but not cured.

   5) Shellac the wood grain in places you know will be impossible to get it out of the grain after the glue has dried.

   I am NOT making fun of your serious question. Been there and did that on every project I ever have made. Well, the ones with glue used anyway.

   Great care can be used to prevent the problem but as in life, Something unexpected occurs very often. AND on the most expensive wood!

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Nov 14, 2008 05:46am | #2

   In addition to what Will said, glue which penetrates the surface can be removed with acetone and a toothbrush.  Hide glue doesn't affect the finish at all, as it is animal protein, rather than a plastic like most modern wood glues.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 14, 2008 07:04am | #3

   glue which penetrates the surface can be removed with acetone and a toothbrush. 

   And sometimes whit' vinegar!

3. 
   ring | Nov 14, 2008 02:55pm | #4

   I'm assuming you mean regular Titebond or similar yellow glue. One of two ways, depending on the situation:

   1. Clean it up immediately with a wet rag. This is easy but it pushes a certain amount of glue into the pores where it can interfere with the finish afterwards. Works fine for anything that will be planed afterwards or finished opaque. Definitely not recommended for joints that will be stained afterwards.

   2. Just after the glue sets up (about an hour depending on the weather), use an old chisel or scraper to lift it off. If you catch it at the right moment it is quite easy to do before it gets really hard.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

4. 
   gossamershavings | Dec 04, 2008 07:35am | #5

   i also try to get it at the right time.it will come off as a kind of gell and is easy.from the sounds of it you have it in the panel stage(pre-assembly)which is even easier.the only problem you might encounter is if you have it all clamped up and want to leave it clamped say... overnight.also if it is sitting on a flat surface( i usually have it in k-body clamps so it's elevated) the bottom side gets all smushed.i rarely will wipe it with water unless it's painted.if you go to scrape it though, if it gets too hard, it tends to tear out some wood. try to use the smallest amount of glue in the first place.i find a thin layer on each piece is best.make sure to fully coat the entire surface to avoid glue starving and you should only see a tiny, even  set of glue beads.these are reletively easy to remove even if it's already cured without tearout.if you have huge globs you are probably using to much glue. Or too much in spots.in complicated assemblys you can tape off adjoining areas to avoid the unavoidable squeeze out.i do this sometimes with large dovetail assemblies.

5. 
   roc | Dec 04, 2008 09:23am | #6

   WillGeorge said a whole bunch of good advice.

   only thing else I can think of is this: Gorilla and hide glue don't show up in the finish as bad as other glues.

6. 
   Metod | Dec 04, 2008 03:47pm | #7

   In addition to the good advice already given, you could also try:
   a) sprinkling some sawdust on freshly squeezed out glue,
   b) rubbing the areas next to the glue lines with some paraffin (maybe a bit faster than the masking tape),
   c) use some commercial glue remover (goo something - can't remember).
   Best wishes,
   Metod

1. 
   bandit9497 | Dec 05, 2008 01:02am | #8

   Thanks to all for the suggestions. 

   Metod:  If you can remember the name of the glue remover that would be great.  i will also check on google and rockler.

   What is the thought behind adding sawdust to the glue that is squeezed out?

   Bandit

1. 
   Metod | Dec 05, 2008 03:01am | #9

   I am home now, and looked it up: De-Glue Goo (from Klingspor - http://www.woodworkingshop.com). It works - but is not an excuse to avoid other means <g>.
   If I remember correctly, I found the advice about the sawdust in FWW magazine a few years ago. It works for me. I am just guessing that the saw dust absorbs glue (or its moisture) faster than solid wood. Maybe some (chemist?) Knothead can give a gooder explanation.
   Best wishes,
   Metod