Hello All ,
Seems like whether we use hand tools or a combination of machines , one thing we all have to deal with is glue squeeze out and otherwise the mess glue can make .
I have heard folks say they didn’t use glue because it is hard to get off and ddin’t want the mess . We shouldn’t compromise the structural integrity of our works due to lack of glue .
There must be a million ways .
So how do you clean your glue off ?
Do you let it dry , part way ? All the way ?
do you use a chisel
do you use a damp rag
are you so careful that you don’t get any squeeze out ( if so you don’t use enough glue)
Personally I wipe most off immmediatatly on a face frame joint but usually let it tack up a few minutes on a big say countertop glue up then slice most off with chisel .When I apprenticed we used a wet rag , then we thought it drove the glue deeper into the material so no more wet rag .
Well, lately I have used a wet rag on some materials with good results , the grain gets raised a bit lightly sand the area .
Happy gluing dusty , boxmaker
Replies
I usually scrape most of the excess with a chisel, then wet (not damp) rag, followed by a dry rag, followed by a wet rag, followed by a dry rag. I've convinced myself that this procedure transfers as much glue as possible to the rags, before it has a chance to penetrate the exposed wood. I haven't done any molecular testing, however, so I might be wrong. Again. ;-)
I use one of those Euro / orange handle paint scrapers they sell at rockler with the carbide inserts, You can resharpen them by removing the insert and rubbing it flatside down on a diamond stone, comes up like new.
The ideal clean up time is when the glue has set up enough to remove from clamps and is still alittle soft..
Tom
Over the years - many pieces - especially chairs - come into the shop for regluing. When I open up the joint to clean the old glue - I notice there isn't much glue. The manufacturers of new furniture use very little glue to avoid squeeze out and subsequent need for clean up.
When possible - I clamp - squeeze out the glue - remove the clamps for a second - thorough glue cleaning and then reclamp - seems to help minimize the glue problem without hurting the glue strength.
SA
I want a thin line of squeeze out on both sides of the glue joint and apply glue accordingly. I note the time of the glue up... then check the hardness of the squeeze out 2 1/2 hours latter as in my shop this has proven to be the right moment. If still a bit soft no more than 30 minutes more of wait which makes my window 2 1/2- 3 hours. Out of the clamps an onto the work-bench.
I use an old #5 plane iron held almost vertical (about a 5 degree cant) with the back of the iron facing me. 2-3 pulls toward me removes all the glue and any tiny ridge that might have occured with creep. I preferr the plane iron as it becomes essentially a hand scraper but does not flex as a normal hand scraper so it is much quicker.
And yes.. pay attention to the way the grain runs. If I have two boards adjacent to each other with grain running opposite direction.. I pull with the grain on one with the edge of the plane iron catching the glue line. Then reverse the glue up so I can pull with the grain on the adjacent board. It takes about 3 minutes to remove all glue on a normal size glue up panel.
I find that different situations require different gluing techniques.
How much glue to use and how to clean it up depends on what I'm doing. When I am laying up a big panel, edge gluing multiple boards, etc, I like to use plenty of glue and clean up the squeeze out using wet, damp and dry rags. I believe this saves a lot of time as the residue can easily be sanded or planed off.
When gluing up cabinet parts and drawers where you have inside corners, I try to use just the right amount of glue to avoid squeeze out. If I do get squeeze out in an inside corner I will leave it until it dries and chip remove it with a chisel. If you try to wipe it out with a wet rag it will still leave some residue that's a real bugger to sand out.
I use a 3m sponge/scouring pad with warm water. I use it as soon as I clamp and find that's the easiest to get it.
Dusty,
The best way to get rid of glue that has squeezed out of your joints is to have one of your apprentices do it. They all know how. I have found that Swedish "au pair" girls are excellent assistants in the workshop.
Mel
Mel,
Please post pictures of your shop assistants removing squeeze out.
Bret
The best solution to dealing with glue squeeze out and the subsequent problems is to use a lot less glue,after all any glue that isn't in the joint is only wasted anyway.
When there is squeeze out it should be so minimal that it just beads up along the joint, if there is so much that the glue starts running down across the stock you are using far too much glue.
The beaded up glue should be left alone, but watched, until it goes from milky colored to clear with possibly a few of the largest beads still a bit milky in their centers. At this point the beads will still be a bit rubbery and can be easily be removed with a sharp chisel. I use a gooseneck chisel that lets me keep the back of the blade flat to the wood.
If the glue is allowed to fully harden by allowing it to dry past the just clear stage it will become rock hard and brittle and will lift wood splinters when you try to remove it while damaging the edge of the chisel.
Dusty,
In my experience, fully hardened PVA glues, the classic yellow carpenter's glues, are very hard when fully cured, they can quickly dull or even chip a chisel blade. I wouldn't use one of my better chisels to remove hardened glue.
I looked up PVA's in a book on glues and it isn't considered all that hard on power tool blades, but that doesn't necessarily also apply to hand tools.
Uncured PVA's will react with steel and iron leaving a permanent black stain in the metal.
Dusty,
I use hide glue, liquid or hot, and remove the excess with a wet rag. The nice thing about hide glue is that if you leave a little residue, it doesn't interfere with stain or finish.
Dick
Painters masking tape then scrap away whats left behind because I can never seem to get the tape close enough.
Dan
Old post but what the heck...
I mostly use the 1 inch wide 'less stick' L-cheep-0 painters masking tape. It does not pull off any more slivers of wood than the expensive blue stuff from 3-M. Not saying 3-M is bad.. Just more expensive by more than a bit.... The blue tape, at least to me, seems to have 'wrinkles' that lets glue get under there.
For some things, I just apply a wash coat of shellac at the edges and then do the glue up. Alcohol wash gets rid of it with little fuss.. OK, so it just keeps the glue from getting into the grain. OK, so it is NOT perfect... I do this in areas that I'd have a fit applying masking tape.....
I think, with modern glues, not much glue is needed in a vell fitted joint so not that much disaster in the outcome.
When all else fails, I use my Flexcut carving tools, to cut it away if the glue did not go that deep INTO THE WOOD!
When glueing boards edge to edge, I dry-clamp first and wipe the joined surface with paste wax. The glue will not stick to the wax and the wax can be easily removed with alcohol.
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