Replies

1. 
   Napie | Oct 16, 2006 06:20pm | #1

   I have used the poly glues for a lot of cutting boards with no problems.

2. 
   KeithNewton | Oct 16, 2006 07:02pm | #2

   tightbond 3 should be a good choice.

3. 
   Ricks503 | Oct 16, 2006 07:41pm | #3

   I like titebond 3 - it is rated as water proof while titebond 2 is water resistant.

    

    

   " There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow

1. 
   John_Carroll | Oct 16, 2006 10:45pm | #4

   Thanks guys.

2. 
   gym | Oct 16, 2006 11:59pm | #5

   When my cutting board cracked I cut out the crack using a table saw and then reglued with a waterproof glue.  Today I would use Titebond 3.

   Gym

3. 
   user-211435 | Oct 17, 2006 08:47pm | #6

   Too bad the wood isn't waterproof.

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

1. 
   Ricks503 | Oct 17, 2006 11:09pm | #7

   I am a purist, I ONLY use hard maple for cutting boards.  I refuse to make face  boards, only edge or end grain ones. 

    

   " There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow

1. 
   user-211435 | Oct 18, 2006 07:39am | #8

   Right, but the wood is still not waterproof.  This is the reason that most cutting boards fail.  The wood pulls them apart from the effects of being wet and dry, over and over.  Maple is pretty strong wood.

   A few years ago there was a big study and a major controversy about cutting board materials.  It was in all the newspapers and on TV.  This study found out that the plastic cutting boards that so many people were starting to use were trapping bacteria in the cuts made by knives, and were unsafe.

   The study found that western alder was the best material to use as something in the wood actually kept the bacteria in check.  I don't know all of the details, but I have been using alder cutting boards since (actually before this too).  It isn't as durable as hard rock maple, but it works well for the purpose.

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

1. 
   dgreen | Oct 18, 2006 12:15pm | #9

   A cabinet company I do a lot of work for also makes their cutting boards of alder, wear properties are terrible but they sand easily and are cheaply replaced. The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer (1891)

2. 
   gym | Oct 19, 2006 09:06pm | #13

   Waterproof wood?  You are not supposed to toss the cutting board into the dishwasher to clean it.  Plus, you should occasionally oil the surface.  I have a friend with an 4ft by 12ft maple kitchen island.  Her favorite cleaning technique is  bleach (diluted some) followed by some cooking oil.

   Gym

1. 
   ETG | Oct 19, 2006 09:50pm | #14

   She shouldn't use cooking oil - it can turn rancid and create health problems.  Use mineral oil - the same stuff used as a lazative or buy similar oil products made specifically for choping blocks by Behlen and others.

1. 
   gym | Oct 19, 2006 11:07pm | #15

   My personal favorite oil to use is walnut oil as it dries (slowly) and does not turn rancid.

   Gym

2. 
   MatthewSchenker | Oct 20, 2006 03:55pm | #16

   I second the suggestion on walnut oil. I make lots of cutting boards every year around the holidays (it's a great gift, as people who don't do woodworking are always in awe when they see a mixed-wood cutting board).I've also use almond oil and mineral oil.For glue, I've used Titebond III and Gorilla Glue. I prefer Titebond III, as it gives me extra time when I'm gling up more complex boards.

3. 
   user-211435 | Oct 21, 2006 09:29pm | #17

   I think that Titebond III is probably safer to eat, too.

   It is unfortunate that it is not really the "ultimate wood glue" though.  I guess it is just a motto.

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

2. 
   Dave45 | Oct 22, 2006 02:38am | #18

   I have two cutting boards I made several years ago that NEVER get immersed in dishwater - and putting them in the dishwasher is a hanging offense - lol.  They're washed off after use and sit in the dishdrainer to dry - then they go back under the sink until the next time.

   About once a year, I give them a good scrubbing and apply a liberal coat of mineral oil to both sides and the edges.  They're still in great shape after all these years.

3. 
   user-211435 | Oct 23, 2006 06:52am | #19

   Now why would you think that I would put anything wooden in the dishwasher?

   That would be silly!

   Hal

4. 
   oldbeachbum | Oct 19, 2006 08:28am | #10

   don't forget to cut out the cracked portion and machine both sides if you wish to save the unit.

   extreme measure..dowel  or biscuit for alignment

   ...The unspoken word is capital. We can invest it or we can squander it.  -Mark Twain...... :0)

1. 
   John_Carroll | Oct 19, 2006 03:39pm | #11

   Thanks all for your advice. I used Titebond III. The break was fairly straight and appeared to be along a glueline. I used a 22-inch jointer plane to straighten/flatten the mating surfaces and remove old glue. It's now back in service. The hardest part of this project was keeping my wife, who loves to spend money, from running out to a fancy kitchen store and buying a new one.

1. 
   Ricks503 | Oct 19, 2006 04:43pm | #12

   Hey, I could have sold her one for only $80.

     

    

   " There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow