Replies

1. 
   cl810 | Mar 17, 2021 01:55pm | #1

   Titebond III is a waterproof glue and will give you a longer work time. It is what I used in making some mahogany faced 2' x 4' shopmade plywood for a recent project.

2. 
   [email protected] | Mar 17, 2021 01:56pm | #2

   Assuming that these are flat surfaces that you have removed the previous finish,use titebond.Again i assume you will,cut,fit and finish the replacements .Then cut some matching cawls,glue the veneer applying some salt or fine sand to inhibit movement,and tape the replacement to the cabinet.Cover the cawls with packing tape to prevent sticking,put each over veneer,and clamp away.Clean the bleed out glue when it is wet

3. 
   john_c2 | Mar 17, 2021 02:08pm | #3

   Titebond cold press veneerglue would be better, especially if you are using anything porous. Definitely not hide glue in a kitchen.

4. 
   mikaol | Mar 17, 2021 06:06pm | #4

   Hide glue gets a bad rap. Unless you're going to be chewing on the wood, a good hide glue (ex: Old Brown Glue) is the best bet for strength and durability.
   Mikaol

1. 
   hoovermd | Mar 18, 2021 11:01pm | #6

   I agree. I've used OBG and a vacuum press to veneer many cabinets.
   For Kitchen, Bath and other places.
   Th characteristics of hide glue are unsurpassed for veneer IMHO.

5. 
   bilyo | Mar 17, 2021 06:32pm | #5

   I like using plastic resin glue like this.
   https://www.amazon.com/00203-Weldwood-Plastic-Resin-Glue/dp/B00Y30865E/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2WF2U80A6FEMY&dchild=1&keywords=weldwood+plastic+resin+glue&qid=1616019859&sprefix=weldwood%2Caps%2C337&sr=8-2
   Not touted as water proof, but unless you are building a boat, it should work fine. I apply it to both surfaces with a short nap detail paint roller. Of course, it needs to be clamped.

6. 
   rob_ss | Mar 19, 2021 03:07am | #7

   Limited experience, but I have used ordinary yellow aliphatic glue and waterproof PVA (Selley's Aquadhere - not afaik a US avialable product) to good effect.
   Some articles in FWW have mentioned using polyurethane glue and this makes a lot of sense as it will self-spread and is totally waterproof once cured. Clean-up is also easier, but even so I used the PVAs. No idea why...

7. 
   jake_w | Mar 19, 2021 07:11am | #8

   I'll throw in my two cents here, since I have tried a number of different glues for veneering.

   You are right on the hide glue for the kitchen. Hide glue is great and I keep a bottle on had all the time. But it is reversible with heat and moisture. Not good for veneer near a stove top.

   Titebond I,II, and III: All are useful for small veneer projects. II and III are waterproof. Having used all three, I do think that Titebond I has a more ridgid glue line, but it is not waterproof. If you are going to go this route, I would pick Titebond III just for the longer open time.

   Titebond cold press: This is a different glue than the ones above. I have a couple of gallons on hand all the time and it is my go to glue for veneering anything less than 8 square feet. I'm not sure on if it is waterproof or not. If you are not going to keep doing veneer work, I would not go with this.

   Polyurethane glue: This is great veneer glue for smaller (less than 1-2 square ft) veneer projects. It foams pretty quickly when you spread it, it makes a mess, and it foams out the edges. When I first read your questions, this was my number one answer.

   Other options like epoxy, CA glue, and Urea-aldehyde glue could be used, but there are better choices.

   Having used all of the above products to apply veneer, I would either go with Titebond III or Polyurethane glue.

8. 
   DRBWWing | Mar 19, 2021 08:19am | #9

   First, I would say go with commercial veneer. It is much thinner and easier to work with. You may save some money, but you're time is also worth something - unless you have a very unique wood or something.

   Many gluing options:

   Paperbacked veneer can be glued with contact cement, if so desired.

   PVA hot iron method works well. Immediate results & no clamping.

   Hot hide glue (not Old Brown Glue) can be hammer veneered - again, no clamping necessary.

   All other glues will need clamping or vacuum pressing (not OBG).

   Personally, I'd use any method that doesn't require clamping or pressing.