Replies

1. 
   Tag | Feb 18, 2003 02:44am | #1

   IMHO, I'd use contact cement and a J roller - instantly stuck.  With yellow glue, you'd about have to use a veneer press, or tons of clamps and cauls to get even pressure, then wait overnight.  Just make sure if you use contact cement that you stick them together on a flat surface.

   Brian

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 18, 2003 05:49am | #2

   Solvent based contact cement is the stuff to use.

3. 
   trialnut | Feb 18, 2003 02:14pm | #3

   If you want a longer lasting glue job then I would use the yellow glue. Spread it with a roller, put the panels together with a small brad partly driven in each corner to keep things from shifting, then clamp by putting a bunch of sandbags on top. It will be more than enough clamping pressure without any cauls needed.

   The Professional Termite

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 18, 2003 08:50pm | #4

   Just curious, how much longer lasting? Solvent based contact cement will last almost forever. We built some double thickness bank teller counters in the mid 1960's that are still solid and the laminate we covered them with using contact cement is still in good shape.

   Yellow glue is no more long lasting than solvent based contact cement.

   Ever try to remove formica that laminated with solvent based contact cement? I ain't easy and requires lots of lacquer thinner as a solvent.

   Edited 2/18/2003 12:56:36 PM ET by Howie

1. 
   trialnut | Feb 19, 2003 02:06pm | #6

   No scientific studies to back me up, just personal observation. I have seen several countertops delaminate due to contact cement faliure but have never seen a good glue joint fail. Maybe my little corner of the world is just different ;>)  Didn't mean to start anything. I was more trying to convey that yellow glue could easily be used without fancy presses, cauls or other setups. Also IMO yellow glue is easier and safer to use.

   The Professional Termite

   Edited 2/19/2003 6:13:32 AM ET by Trialnut

1. 
   DennisS | Feb 19, 2003 07:52pm | #7

   Contact cement is sometimes a little tricky to use. Seems simple but ....

   I overhauled my son's kitchen a while back and literally lifted the old laminate off the existing particle board underlayment. In this case, the particle board was only single coated. I've found the trick is that all wood surfaces of any composition need to be two-coated. Set the first coat dry thoroughly to seal the wood, then roll on another coat. In the original poster's situation, I'd suggest two coats applied as noted on each of the mating faces.

   Old venitian blinds make good slip sticks when positioning the sheets before they touch.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   trialnut | Feb 19, 2003 08:46pm | #8

   I am aware that two coats are needed on wood and such and think most DIY types know that. If contact cement is so tricky to use then I am definately going for the yellow or white glue <g>. No tricks there, just a 1-2 hr dry time, cleans up with water, is rather safe to breath while using and allows parts to be positioned during assembly. Fits my KISS mentality better but to each his own.The Professional Termite

2. 
   DennisS | Feb 19, 2003 09:18pm | #9

   I may have overstated the "tricky" part - just for someone (not you, obviously) who's not accustomed to it, it can be ... shall we say ... tricky (grin)

   I'm always a little leary of using contact cement due to it's 'launch commit' attitude. You don't get much chance to adjust things once you touch down. All I've ever done with it is p-lam which is pretty easy to support with old window blind slats.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 19, 2003 10:20pm | #10

   Dennis

      Good point about the launch commit of contact glue. I have used both glue and contact cement in similar situations. The only problem I find with glue is getting enough pressure down evenly to get total adhesion. I will try Trailnut's solution to that.

      If I used contact cement, I would use slightly larger pieces than I needed. One would be larger than the other and both larger than the final sizing. The largest peice would give you a square side to start from when trimmiing. That way, no room for launch commit error. After adhesion, simply trim to size on the rip fence of the TS using one of the larger pieces square sides as the starting point.

      Hmmm.... maybe the glue would be just as easy. Or maybe just flip a coin. Better yet, I think I will take it to a professional and let him do it so I can get back to my nap.

   Better solutions fror better living...ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

4. 
   trialnut | Feb 20, 2003 02:25pm | #11

   "so I can get back to my nap"

   Now you got my vote. :^)The Professional Termite

5. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 20, 2003 09:56pm | #12

   Trailnut

     ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!!

   sarge..jt ha..ha..

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 20, 2003 10:41pm | #13

   I don't think we ever had a callback on a solvent based contact cement failure. We had lousy performance from the waterbased type we sometimes used on-site.

   However, there is a difference between laminating a smooth non-porous material like plastic laminate and two pieces of plywood. I've never seen a failure there.

   If I were doing this job, I would laminate pieces a couple of inches larger than needed and size them after they were glued together. No need to worry about the instant grab that way.

   But, there's more than one way to skin the cat.

4. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 19, 2003 04:19am | #5

   jack

      I arrived in the same boat with the contact cement folks on this one.

   sarge..jt