Replies

1. 
   Tao | Dec 20, 2003 04:10am | #1

   I'd think about construction adhesive or silicone.  The surface won't be very straight, it's ver porous, and you'll need gap filling ability and flexibility.  Yellow glue and poly don't seem like they'd fit the bill.

   FWIW

   Michael R

2. 
   Sphere | Dec 20, 2003 04:19am | #2

   Roger that, or try contact cement if it is a close fit.Rubbry enough and no clamps.???

3. 
   JohnWW | Dec 20, 2003 04:42am | #3

   Dovetail,

   Drywall mud generally doesn't have great adhesion to the wallboard underneath it and will turn back to mud again if it gets wet.  To deal with the first problem, the molding should fit fairly well onto the surface otherwise it will tear away the compound when the clamps are released and the molding springs away from the wall. 

   To deal with the second problem, and to create a better glue surface, the compound should be primed and painted before the molding is glued on.  To reach full strength, the paint should be given a week or more to dry. 

   I agree with the suggestion about using a construction adhesive, but it can be messy and hard to clean up if there is squeeze out along the edges of the molding.  Ordinary yellow glue would work well also, and be easier to clean up, but will need longer clamping time.  Gorilla Glue would have no advantage over yellow glue and is messier to use.  If possible, use nails into the framing to reinforce the attachment.  If the molding is going to be painted, small gaps between the molding and the wall can be caulked before painting to give a clean edge.

   John W.

4. 
   Dave10 | Dec 20, 2003 06:24am | #4

   Construction adhesive is probably the best way to go. I've done it

   several times and have secured molding to the drywall with a pinner - 1",

   23 gauge, shot-in at an angle. The weakest link will be the paint and

   paper on the drywall.

1. 
   dovetail3 | Dec 20, 2003 07:38am | #5

   Thanks for yours and all the other great suggestions.

   I think I'll shellac the area to be glued and use yellow glue. Hope it

   works. There is no drywall underneath. It's just a pretty thick layer of mud finished

   with a couple layers of topping sealed with shellac then primed

   with acrylic primer. Any further suggestions are welcome

   Thanks again

   Ken

1. 
   BG | Dec 20, 2003 02:17pm | #6

   Dovetail,

   Let me go off the deep end here, it's Sat. morning and Santa is taking my shop as a storage depot....so I'll pick at your problem with an over the top solution....lol.

   Would it make any sense to dado out the back of the molding to accept a strip of wood ...maybe 1/4" deep by 1/2" wide?....and then make such a strip and attach with screws to your wall...then glue molding on to the wood strip?

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Dec 20, 2003 07:51pm | #7

   Yellow glue has low adhesion to non-wood surfaces. It gets its strength from cross linking with two layers of wood. I would not rely on yellow glue on top of a finished surface.

   Someone has recommended construction adhesive and that would be my recommendation also. Another option is adhesive caulking.

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 21, 2003 03:16am | #8

   MIG welder.

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 21, 2003 08:01pm | #9

   Sphere -

   I've tried 3/32 dowels in my stick welder with very *very* limited succcess. Sanding out the burn marks usually results in some rather deep divots that are difficult to fill attractively.

   Where do you find coils of wood suitable for use in my wire feed?

   (just kidding)

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

2. 
   Sphere | Dec 22, 2003 12:57am | #10

   Easy as pie...I like to use the .035 HOLLY stringing for inlay.  Of course the GLUE core is what you need. I have found that the Argon gas is not needed unless a flare up seems possible. For soft woods a LOW temp, and fast feed is best. For something as hard as maple crank up the voltage and slow the feed rate.<G>

   HAPPY JOINING..

   Geez, some one might actually try this , Ya think?

3. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 22, 2003 08:38pm | #11

   After the surface was completely finished I'd use Roo Glue.  It's a vinyl adhesive that cleans up well and dries clear.  It'll stick wood to melamine so I think it'll work for you.  I use it for most of my pre-finshed glue ups.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne