Replies

1. 
   Floss | Feb 08, 2007 05:56pm | #1

   You can pot on your first coat of finish then use a tinted shellac to color the glue spots. Then put your final coats of finish over the repair.

   You can use alcohol soluble dyes or powdered colorants.

   Transtint dyes work very well with shellac, and behlen makes good powdered pigments.

   J.P.

   http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
1. 
   Ehart | Feb 08, 2007 06:18pm | #2

   Thanks for the prompt reply JP. The proposed finish is to brush on Polycrylic;does that change your answer any?

1. 
   Floss | Feb 08, 2007 06:43pm | #3

   No, just use dewaxed shellac.You may be able to color the polycrylic though. That is the water based poly from Minwax, no?Transtints works with water, alcohol and lacquer finishes.You could give it a try.If you use ground pigments they need to be very fine in able to disperse in water. So the pigment colors may not work too well with the polycrylic. I guess you could ask the manufacturer, or just try it yourself.J.P.http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com

1. 
   Ehart | Feb 08, 2007 07:28pm | #5

   Thank you
   I knew there was a way.I'm off to the paint store.
   E

2. 
   Kevin | Feb 08, 2007 07:17pm | #4

   If it's just residue in the wood pores and not lumps of glue on top of the wood then I would suggest manually coloring it in and then refinishing over the top.

   The basic idea is really just a tangent off of  the "graining pencils" concept. You want to use high quality (art grade) colored pencils, although I know a guy who likes to use his wife's mascara. Rough up the area you intend to recolor with something fine enough to not take off too much finish but course enough to roughen up the surface enough so that the color from the pencils will take (doesn't work on a glossy or smooth surface - you just can't get enough color on the surface). Differing pressures applying the color along with creatively smudging the fix with a clean finger can work miracles.

   Usually you can find one color which will match the stained wood. Sometimes it takes lightly shading over one color with another color to achieve a good match. I like to use a dark color which matches the darker grain and highlight the grain a bit too, which helps disguise the fact that you even fixed anything. Then just refinish over the top of it.

   I've used this technique very successfully to fix fairly significant flaws where veneer was sanded through to the backer before it got to me. It can be labor intensive, time-wise. But once I'm done with a fix even I usually have a hard time finding it and I'm a damn perfectionist finisher. LOL

   I've got a tin full of an assortment of colored art pencils which are every bit as important a part of my finishing equipment as my spray guns are. The quality of the pencils is very important. I've found the cheap school-type colored pencils effectively useless. The "lead" is just too hard. Go to an art supply store and buy actual art pencils, you won't regret it. My personal favorite is Sanford's "PRISMACOLOR" pencils. And out of all of the colors I have found "Dark Umber" to be far and away more versatile than any other color for stained or unstained wood.

   I used to work for a master finisher/painter who liked to use the traditional Behlen/Mohawk approach of using powdered pigments in a clear lacquer base and then grain in with a super-fine brush. He was a great finisher and taught me a lot. But in all honesty I have to say that I was unimpressed with the quality of his fixes use the traditional approach. IMHO art pencils work much, much better.

   
   

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   Edited 2/8/2007 11:22 am ET by Kevin

1. 
   Ehart | Feb 08, 2007 07:45pm | #6

   Kevin I think I'm going to end up with a combination of ideas involving actual paint dyes and Polycrylic.I too have a set of colored pencils but the 'lead' is more of a crayon type material and the art is really far away.
   E