Replies

1. 
   hdgis1 | May 27, 2006 07:47pm | #1

   If possible, try using a lock miter. Any good article or book on some of the old craftsman tables etc will tell you how its done.

2. 
   Lataxe | May 27, 2006 10:02pm | #2

   Papa,

   Being a fan of free wood, which often comes at 6/4 or thinner, I have glued up many legs from two or even three strips. 

   I generally try to orient the end grain of the pieces so that there is a relatively even transition of the grain direction from one piece to the other.  I'm assuming this will minimise differential shrinkage/expansion between the pieces (not had one crack yet) This also often helps the join down the legs to diasappear or become not-too-noticeable.

   Another tactic is to book match the pieces, if possible - which can look quite good down the joined lengths (especially if you're turning them) but might cause more differential shrinkage between the pieces.

   To join the two pieces, I flatten the faces to be glued together using a drum sander with 180 or 240 grit paper on the drum.  This seems to give the best glue surface (meets everywhere and grabs with just rubbing, although I clamp them as well). A big belt sander or planer with newly sharpened knives should work to similar effect (although I'd sand any planed surfaces too). 

   I use PVA unless it's an oily wood, in which case thay get polyU and a few internal biscuits to increase the glue surface.

   Lataxe

3. 
   Lataxe | May 29, 2006 07:59pm | #3

   Papa,

   Here are a couple of pics of a glued-up aformosia 6/4 leg, made from 2 pieces ripped out of a 3.5 inch through & through-cut plank.

   This configuration is good for hiding the join down the length of the leg, as the grain of radial cuts matches much more easily than would the grain of t & t cuts. 

   Use of a mitre lock joint, suggested in another post, would make the cleanest result, as all the joins are at the corners; but you waste quite a bit of wood and the overall grain pattern won't look natural - although that's just a matter of taste. 

   Many Stickley oak table legs are traditionally made like this, to show medullary rays all around the leg.  They do look rather good.

   Lataxe

   
   

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   Edited 5/29/2006 1:01 pm ET by Lataxe

   
1. 
   hdgis1 | May 29, 2006 10:19pm | #4

   Im not sure how using a lock mitre on the corner would waste wood. As for matching grain, that is rather easily done and in fact you can match grain all the way around the leg by simply ripping wide board to width of leg and mitring.

    

   Edit - if the wasted wood you are refering to is that which is removed by router bit, I think in the grand scheme of things were really not talking about tha tmuch wood are we?

   Edited 5/29/2006 3:21 pm ET by hdgis1

1. 
   Lataxe | May 29, 2006 10:56pm | #5

   HD,

   You're right that the "waste" is not necessarily an issue; and I did mean only that removed by the lock mitre cutter.  If the parts that are lock-mitred are thick but narrow in width, the percentage waste would be larger, of course.  Again, not an issue if you have plenty of wood. 

   The simpler ripping and mitering of a board you suggest would also "waste" a bit of wood and again would look "unnatural".  But it's a perfectly valid technique and will, as you point out, avoid any potentially obvious join down the middle of the leg.

   Sticking two flat bits of wood together is probably rather less work than cutting 4 lock mitres, although that too is not an issue if you're happy to spend the time.   This simple approach of mine does become invalid if you can't hide that join and it's important to the recipient of the furniture that you do.

    

   I often get free wood of exotic kinds that couldn't really be obtained easily from the market.  As the amounts are usually very limited, I've developed "careful" habits to avoid running out. I am the parsimonious one.  :-)

   Lataxe

2. 
   Papa Yanni | May 29, 2006 11:30pm | #6

   Thanks for the advice fella's
   PY