Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Nov 05, 2003 04:47pm | #1

   I'm not familiar with Cocobolo, but Rosewood is one of the "oily exotics". Titebond2 might work OK, but you'd be better off using either polyurethane glue or epoxy.

   And whatever kind you use, be sure to wipe the joints with a solvent before applying the glue.

   As for the finish, I'd use an oil-varnish mix. The Sam Maloof finish is a good one -- there are others too. But note that any wood will patinate (change color somewhat) with time.

   The only finish that might prevent it would be a polyurethane with UV inhibitors. But for stunning woods like rosewood and cocobolo, please don't use poly. It isn't truly clear, and it makes the wood look like plastic.

   Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.
2. 
   johnzeitoun | Nov 05, 2003 08:00pm | #2

   three points

   Titebond will work fine for your unit, gorilla glue might be better for oily woods, but I wouldn't worry about it.

   second, let the wood darken over time, it's natural and beautiful. If you mean the darkness of wetted wood, as in freshly applied oil, use a water based lacquer to darken it as little as possible. I do not recommend water based varnishes, they are hard to use.

   Third, don't use nice wood like that for a toolbox! You want something you can treat like a tool, that you can hammer on, stand on, use for support...same goes for workbenches, they can be made well, out of less expensive wood and you won't have to worry about every little scratch.

   hope this helps

3. 
   VeniciaL | Nov 05, 2003 10:30pm | #3

   D55,

   No finish will prevent the wood from darkening over time. And you dont want to prevent Cocobolo from developing its color. Freshly worked, it is often disappointing and can look quite bland. It sometimes needs months, if not years to achieve its potential. Leave it unfinished after final preparation for at least a few weeks in the open air and light.

   If the Bolivian rosewood is a true rosewood, it too may need time to develop.

   Wipe the jointed edges with lacquer solvent for gluing. Titebond will work. Epoxy is a good choice.

   I recommend using spray lacquer for finishing cocobolo and other rosewoods.

   VL

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/5/2003 3:49:57 PM ET by Venicia L

4. 
   withthegrain | Nov 05, 2003 11:12pm | #4

   D55

   I don't have much to add to the glue up question, but several years ago I built a nice table out of cocobolo and the dust just about killed me! I broke out in a painful rash and had bad respirtory (sp?) distress. It took about a week for all the effects to go away. Be carefull.

   Dennis

5. 
   PlaneWood | Nov 07, 2003 07:59am | #5

   Use slow setting clear epoxy.  I buy mine at woodcrafters in half pint quantities.

   Have you ever worked with Bolivian Rosewood?  If not, you might want to do a patch test on your skin before working with it.   What ever you do, DON'T breath the dust.

   One problem with it is that it sneak up on you.  I worked with it for 2 months, then WHAM I broke out all over like a case of poison ivy.  Took 3 weeks for all the rash and itchin to go away.  I'm somewhat allergic to Cocobolo, but not near as much a Bol. Rosewood.

   I now wear protective clothing, gloves, mask, and use a DC.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   D55 | Nov 07, 2003 02:52pm | #6

   Thank you all.....

   I've worked with many hundreds of "oily exotics" over the past 12 years and have been luckey in that I have had no allergic reactions to any of them .

   Most of my work has been small jewlry boxes and gift items that do not need the strength at the joints that this project will require.  naturally I will use pinned tennons & dovetails wherever possible, I am still concerned that the glue will breakdown over time and that this massive cabinet will not remain a work of art.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Nov 07, 2003 07:05pm | #7

   D55 - washing the surface with acetone will get rid of the surface wax.  Don't emerse the pieces for a long time though as it will leach out the color.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

6. 
   NickC | Nov 07, 2003 08:26pm | #8

   Epoxy is a good choice for those oily woods. I use West System epoxy. http://www.westsystem.com. They recommend you sand the surfaces to be bonded to 80 grit, and that you wipe down the surface with acetone 15 minutes before gluing. Removes some of the oil. One caution--Use white (unbleached) paper towels to wipe with, not rags. Rags often are made from a material--or have been washed with a material--that the acetone will release onto the surface, doing more harm than good. A lot more info on the West System web site.