Replies

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jul 10, 2005 01:53am | #1

   Won't be a problem IF you did a good job removing the glue (when it was wet).

   Can you see/feel any glue residue?

   ********************************************************
   "I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
   -- Herb Caen (1916-1997)

2. 
   joinerswork | Jul 10, 2005 01:58am | #2

   don,

   Should be alright.  Shave off any goobers if you missed them, before regluing.  Dry runs are a good thing, wouldn't you say?  ;-))

   Cheers,

   Ray

3. 
   philip | Jul 10, 2005 02:19am | #3

   I doubt if the joint strenght has been compromised much, especially as you were able to actually wipe and clean with water.The trouble starts when the glue dries beyond the stage where it prevents the penetration of subsequent application.
   These are "good" lessons to learn. When I was a mere youth I spent a long time turning the legs for 6 bar stools with rails upper and lower. Come assembly time I tried to do all 6 at once.... luckily my brother in law's father saved the day by preventing further temper loss and instructing that all glue be cleaned off immediately. We then assemled them into 12 frames first then completed them the next day.
   I think they were good for 20plus years.

4. 
   KeithNewton | Jul 10, 2005 02:41am | #4

   Don,
   I am sorry, but I am not the one that you wanted to hear from. If it were mine, I would run them over the jointer one more time.
   You did not say, but I am guessing that you used tightbond. Most water-born glues penetrate the cell walls, and when they dry, if the adjoining sides are a good fit, the glue-line is stronger than the unfortified wood on either side of the joint. Now you may have gotten enough of the glue off that it will still penetrate into the cell walls, maybe NOT. Would you glue planks together that the edges had been painted?
   How much work is it to run the edges over the jointer one more time?

1. 
   donshop | Jul 10, 2005 05:15am | #5

   The chest was in last month's Woodsmith.  They suggested gluing the top and bottom on.  I tried to figure a way to use clips or screws but nothing worked.  There's enough residue on both sides of the joint so I'll probably have trouble.  The chest is all assembled so the jointer won't work.  I think I'll sand both sides.  It might be uneven but the joint is hidden by moldings.  Because there's a molding to cover it, I think I'll try using the drill from my pocket jig and run some of those self drilling screws in.  With my skill however, they'll probably come out the top.  Thanks to all for the advice. 

   A dry run?  What's the fun in that?  Don

    

1. 
   KeithNewton | Jul 10, 2005 05:25am | #6

   Wait a minute Don, From your first post, I thought you were just edge gluing planks for the top and bottom together at once. Now it sounds like you are gluing them onto the ends of a box.
   I would not sand for this kind of glue. A plane would be much better.

2. 
   philip | Jul 10, 2005 05:31am | #7

   I see now that the glue must have dried or at least there is still some in the pores. Can you not plane by hand , or at least use a card scraper to get to 'virgin' wood?
   If this happens agin to you in the future the thing is to wipe and reglue as soon as possible.....i.e before there is skinning or unless you can re-plane the surfaces.

1. 
   philip | Jul 10, 2005 05:43am | #8

   I don't want to be the first to say it -but must the bottom be glued on? (considerations of allowance for movement etc)

3. 
   joinerswork | Jul 10, 2005 07:33pm | #11

   don,

   What exactly is the joint that you are using between the top and end? I was assuming dovetails, but it doesn't sound like that is what you are using.

   Regards,

   Ray

5. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 10, 2005 05:07pm | #9

   YES! bUT WHAT I know?,,,

6. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 10, 2005 05:57pm | #10

   For full strength adhesion, PVA adhesive requires virgin wood.  The way is works is by activating the cells and fibers in the top layer so the top layer must be virgin wood. 

   I'm not sure I understand what you did (or didn't do) but if you want a full strength joint, you have to remove all the adhesive residue.

   Howie.........
7. 
   mike4244 | Jul 10, 2005 09:21pm | #12

   If there are no globs of glue you have no problem. The surfaces to be glued should be smooth. I still size endgrain with a small amount of glue well brushed on, before glueing up the joint. This used to be standard with mitered casings where all the joints are endgrain.If you are not sure, take two scraps, put glue on them and wipe it off. After is well dried, glue the scraps together. Next day see if the glue bond breaks when you try to break it.If the sample does not break on the glueline, go ahead and glue up your project.

   mike