Replies

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jul 08, 2004 11:47pm | #1

   I use a webbing clamp for these stratt - if the front of the joint is open, then slide a couple of blocks under the tight webbing and push/hammer them along so they sit on top of the joint , closing it up.

   Also, plane a couple of swipes off the biscuits in case your 22.5 degrees isn't accurate.

   Cheers,

   eddie

2. 
   BG | Jul 09, 2004 02:35am | #2

   Stratt,

   One way that has worked well has been to use masking tape.  I lay out a couple of long strip of masking tape on the table saw about a foot longer than is needed... and then lay the pieces edge to edge outside down...put glue on the joints and roll up the tape around the pieces.  While the joint is not under great pressure the glue joint is beautiful and just as strong....try it with some scraps..

   I just realized that your need is different....I'm not sure mine would work if it's not a complete circle of pieces. 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/8/2004 7:37 pm ET by BG

3. 
   notDusty | Jul 09, 2004 03:10am | #3

                   stratt ,

         I generally run splines the full length of the joint , they help with alignment and add a bit of glue surface . As for closing and clamping the joints tight I learned to make some special blocks to aid in this very problem. I use scrap pieces of say 2 and a half to 3 " by about 6-8" long 4/4 hardwood. I cut a notch the same thickness as the frame you are making 13/16" or whatever. I have not made new ones in a long time but I think the angle of the notch or slot is the same 22 1/2 degree as the joint . This will give you a parallel clamping surface . I may use 4 or 5 on each joint depending on the length.Sorry if you don't understand , but this is difficult to explain in words.So lay the 8" scrap flat and about 2" from one end mark two lines on the 22 1/2 degree angle , bandsaw out the wood between the lines , run the notch about 1 1/2 " deep . Now it should fit over the frame wood , and become a clamp block.Make the slot a bit large so it is not a pressed on fit.

                   good luck                dusty

4. 
   forestgirl | Jul 09, 2004 03:14am | #4

   I would make clamping blocks that match the angle (22.5).  Either put them under your band clamp or, if you need more pressure, use bar clamps or Bessey K's.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

5. 
   notDusty | Jul 09, 2004 03:54am | #5

                stratt,

      I just went down to the shop and checked the angle . It is 45 degrees ,TRUST ME, just lay a tri- square on the edge and mark the cut line. The beauty of these blocks is you can move the clamps in or out to close or open the the joint.

                  I know this will solve your clamping             dusty

6. 
   chairmake1 | Jul 10, 2004 03:19am | #6

   I use several pieces of rope and some masking tape.

   The rope is wrapped around the project and tied in a knot - insert a dowel and anything several feet long and then twist the dowel around the rope untll there is enough pressure to hold the parts in place - then tie off the dowel and wait for the glue to dry.

   The masking tape can be applied either across or with the glue line. Placed across the glue line before the parts are moved into place will apply pressure to the joint when they have been floded into place.

   Blue tape works best for me.

   Robert

7. 
   joinerswork | Jul 11, 2004 08:45am | #7

   Stratt,

   If you cut the 45* angle all on the side piece, just to a depth that matches the thickness of the front, you will be left with an inside corner that gives you something to pull against when clamping.  As someone else suggested, a set of blocks with a lip to hang over the outside edge of the side, and a 45*notch cut to align with the plane of the front will give a place to clamp across the joint.

   It also is helpful to make a test block by cutting a 135* inside corner that you can fit over the joint to "try" the joint at different places along its length.  Adjusting the clamps higher or lower in the notches of the clamp blocks will tend to open or close the angle of the joint.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   JoeWood | Jul 11, 2004 08:46pm | #8

   I like to use ropes, like Bert, but, I like to tie a truckers-type knot, and cinch the rope up to exactly where I want it. 

8. 
   Sphere | Jul 12, 2004 07:36pm | #9

   tack some scrap wood on with a hot glue gun..perch the clamps on that.

   Knockoff the scrap, alcohol and a chisel cleans off the glue

   Hand screws are my choice

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

9. 
   davidguy | Dec 29, 2020 05:07pm | #10

   I read and watched YouTube Videos and there seems to be a lot of people using hot glue to adhere angled wood blocks and then knocking off the finished peice, sanding and preparing or should I say repairing the wood. I created my own blocks by using two approximately 30 degree cuts to create two blocks angled blocks to use as the clamp blocks (I also used a biscuit joint and because they were small and well aligned just used pressure to join them and after they dried, also drilled with two screws in one and one screw in the other (3" screws pre drilled) to make them rock solid. I then adhered 150 Grit Sand paper with 3M spray adhesive to the block side against the wood for friction to hold and then clamped the blocks to the two pieces and then clamped the blocks to each other to drawn in and tighten the joint. I also put in a back brace to keep the angle and used No. 10 Biscuits to join the boards. 6' and 4' sections. Photo attached... it worked great after two failed attempts trying other peoples methods. Hope this helps.