Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Jul 26, 2007 07:14am | #1

   Brian ,        Ideally start out thicker then glue up and surface to 3/8" , this will allow for some discrepancies and movement during glue up .

         I'm guessing   you  have some method in mind to surface the entire piece  after glue up regardless .

      You may have to clamp cauls or boards on edge on the top and the bottom across the width  to help keep the thin boards from bowing or cupping , while clamping the joints tight .

         hope this helps                dusty

2. 
   Lataxe | Jul 26, 2007 10:57am | #2

   Brian,

   I have always used a rubbed joint to edge glue thin stuff; but your 10 foot lengths are going to make that a non-starter as they will flop along their length and so come out of alignment.  So you need an alignment aid.

   Nor can you easily use biscuits or dowels to help alignment as the stock is too thin for them - they will show on the surface if the dowels or biscuits expand a lot (although you could ry dry No 0 biscuits (just for alignment - no glue). 

   Perhaps you could route a slim groove in the edges and use a thin spline to provide the alignment (and more glue surface)?  2mm is the thinnest router bit I have (part of a stack for routing grooves of various widths) but I have never used it alone.  3mm might be better (and only 5mm deep, say).

   Another possibility is use of a Plano press - a vertical row of clamps that both press the edges together and flatten the whole panel. However, for 10 foot of 3/8ths width you'd need quite a few plano clamps; and they are not cheap.

   Lee Valley sell a set of fittings that can be used with your own bar stock to make a similar clamp to a Plano - it presses edges together and keeps the panel flat.  You're still talking serious money, though, for enough to do your 10 foot length.

   Lataxe

3. 
   BG | Jul 26, 2007 12:00pm | #3

   bmyyou,
   I'd just use cleats and wedges (3 or 4 on each side)on top of a 10' piece of melamine or the like. I'd do it in sections, once glued, I put a bunch of weight on top. I have 5lb plates but I'd use anything including rocks and dirt in tupperwear containers....yes, this is dangerous work...:)

4. 
   MikeHennessy | Jul 26, 2007 03:01pm | #4

   Clamp cauls.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

5. 
   boysie39 | Jul 27, 2007 11:24pm | #5

   bmyyou, I've done this with 7' boards half inch thick. Lay out your timber on your bench ,then put a couple of pieces the same thickness either side to give you an overhang of about 1" .Then put some battens the same width across on top of the workpiece and use three or four small ratchet straps on top of the battens and tighten up.That is under the bench and over the battens. It worked for me but what I'd be making may not be as valuable as what your at .
   hope I have put some thoughts into your mind. Regds Boysie Slan Leat.

   I'm never always right  but i'm always never wrong. Boysie
6. 
   chaim | Jul 29, 2007 02:33am | #6

   Perhaps you can glue up thicker boards and resaw them to the thickness desired?

   Chaim

   "paitience little grasshopper" when you can take the chisel from my hand you can then leave the school!